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Say you spend $300 on a K&N...

You will literally see a fractional, and most likely a gain in gas mileage that you won't even notice (as long as you drive the same as before). So the $300 you just dropped on a K&N could pay for 9 or so fill-ups in your truck, which is more gas than you will EVER save with that K&N. If you want an intake, make your own.

Food for thought.
 

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CC05 said:
Say you spend $300 on a K&N...

You will literally see a fractional, and most likely a gain in gas mileage that you won't even notice (as long as you drive the same as before). So the $300 you just dropped on a K&N could pay for 9 or so fill-ups in your truck, which is more gas than you will EVER save with that K&N. If you want an intake, make your own.

Food for thought.
I agree, go with a K+N filter and you will prolly get the same results and save money. I have just the filter.
 

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It's easy to make an intake. Just buy the pipe from ebay for some other vehicle. Then get some couplings and a K&N filter that fits the pipe.

To cut it, you can probably use an exhaust pipe cutter, which is pretty inexpensive.

What some people do on the 3rd generation preludes is buy a cold air intake made for an Integra. Ebay for real cheap. Then just cut the pipe and couple it together to fit.

*edit*

Ebay has kits for other cars that are from $15-$50
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Car-Truck- ... air+intake

Summit has individual custom tubes that you will pay a lot more for
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Depa ... s=Rank|Asc
 

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...or you can just buy conduit from your local harware store, which is just as easy, if not easier.
 

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If you want to get technical;

-You are most likely going to install an intake for performance.
-Conduit doesn't allow heat to pass through nearly as much as a metal intake tube. Therefore; more performance for less money.
-Talking about ghetto.? Ebay intakes are ghetto.
-You're a flaming idiot for coming on a COLORADO forum posting links to intake tubes for everything EXCEPT Colorados...on Ebay at that.?
-For what you suggest, he can just buy a K&N, that FITS, for cheaper.
-When someone like YOU makes a conduit intake, they tend to look shitty, whereas mine, along with many others, do NOT look shitty. If I'm going to do something, it is going to be done right, or it won't be done at all.

Think before you speak, tripledude.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the replies. I wasn't looking for performance, but saw a show on Speed where they said a cold air intake improves mileage. I was kind of skeptical.
 

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I don't see how an intake kit improves mileage.

1. The stock intake is already cold air, most of the kits are drawing in warmer air than the stock setup. Cold intake air will lead to better spark advance, which will lead to fuel savings.
2. Restriction: the throttle plate causes all the restriction, the intake will only cause restriction a WOT.
 

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CC05 said:
If you want to get technical;

-You are most likely going to install an intake for performance.
-Conduit doesn't allow heat to pass through nearly as much as a metal intake tube. Therefore; more performance for less money.
-Talking about ghetto.? Ebay intakes are ghetto.
-You're a flaming idiot for coming on a COLORADO forum posting links to intake tubes for everything EXCEPT Colorados...on Ebay at that.?
-For what you suggest, he can just buy a K&N, that FITS, for cheaper.
-When someone like YOU makes a conduit intake, they tend to look shitty, whereas mine, along with many others, do NOT look shitty. If I'm going to do something, it is going to be done right, or it won't be done at all.

Think before you speak, tripledude.
Sorry I offended you. Actually, I'm pretty good with custom stuff. The reason I didn't post the Canyon K&N intake is because it is 5-10x's the price of a generic custom intake (~$300+).

Lol nobody said your intake looks shitty. And you're the only one who has flamed this thread. Here is your K&N intake:
http://www.octanemotorsports.com/produc ... googlebase
http://www.stylintrucks.com/part.aspx?c ... 051-199046
 

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A 4% gain in HP at 5800 RPM is measurable for sure, but that also means that at reasonble RPM's (2000) the MPG gain due to reduced pumping losses would be negligible. You will NEVER save back the money spent for this mod. Someone could offer me one of these for free, and i doub't I'd install it, since I suspect more underhood noise due to a lack of the baffling that GM saw fit to mould into mine.
All of the OEM's are interested in posting the highest mileage numbers possible on the window stickers of their vehicles. If they don't wan't to spend the money to do this from the design stage, then it can't be cost effective in the aftermarket.
 

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A cold air intake will increase mpg's for sure. Is seems some others may not agree, however they have not all installed one themselves. Our trucks do have a factory CAI, yet it is limited to the amount of air allowed to come in the small fender opening. The ultimate limiting factor is going to be the cylinder head itself in conjunction with cam duration and lift. But changing these gains power and this is about mpgs.
The factory filter may work well for a few miles, but becomes horribly restrictive once it gets even a thin coat of dust on it. You are much better off replacing it with a higher flowing more efficient filter such as k&n or aem dri-flow. These run roughly 50 bucks and you will recover those savings within a few months depending on how much you drive. But you can expect to save about 5 bucks per tank if you drive it the same. Depending on where you live or how much you drive you may have to replace the OEM filter 3 or 4 times a year, so the aftermarket filter pays for itself. As far as the intake runner, less restrictive is beneficial, same as exhaust.
Most who do find it hard to keep their foot out of it cause it sounds and pulls so much better. If they didnt work, why do we keep buying and building them???
 

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I may have incorrectly stated fender opening, i dont remember if it is there or drawing air from the front under the headlight. Ill check it tomorrow
 

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It draws air from inside the fender...I didn't notice any real gains in mileage when I installed my custom intake, but considering how little cash it costs vs. the performance gains I felt I'm absolutely satisfied...most of the gain was felt in the low rpms actually, and it's really barely noisier if you leave the lid on the factory airbox. Here's a link to my thread...sorry the intake is unpainted but you get the idea...I don't think it looks bad at all.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76557&start=0

The biggest things that improved my mileage are my exhaust, and my scangauge. The exhaust just made the truck breathe better, and the scangauge really helped me adjust my driving style to the characteristics of my truck. I just got back from snowboarding on saturday (2 hour drive into the mountains) and with myself, 3 other people and their gear averaged 8.8 L/100km (27 US mpg). Can't argue with that for a Z71 crew cab 3.5L with 3.73's.
 

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If anyone is suggesting that an intake restriction is causing an over rich fuel mixture, that is bunk. The O2 sensor will cause the PCM to lean out based on existing air inlet measurements at the throttle body. These engines do not have a carb. If it had a carb, it would run rich. The oxygen sensor is the key to the engine striving for the optimum fuel air ratio. It makes no difference if the limiting factor is a throttle valve or a clogged air filter. Less air in will result in less fuel used. Power is another story. If you want horsepower, then you need a non-restrictive air inlet. Less exhaust restriction is good for gas mileage, because the PCM can't measure backpressure. But if the exhaust is only mildly restictive at 5800 RPM under heavy load, it isn't a problem at 2,000 RPM.
 

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calirado22 said:
A cold air intake will increase mpg's for sure. Is seems some others may not agree, however they have not all installed one themselves. Our trucks do have a factory CAI, yet it is limited to the amount of air allowed to come in the small fender opening. The ultimate limiting factor is going to be the cylinder head itself in conjunction with cam duration and lift. But changing these gains power and this is about mpgs.
The factory filter may work well for a few miles, but becomes horribly restrictive once it gets even a thin coat of dust on it. You are much better off replacing it with a higher flowing more efficient filter such as k&n or aem dri-flow. These run roughly 50 bucks and you will recover those savings within a few months depending on how much you drive. But you can expect to save about 5 bucks per tank if you drive it the same. Depending on where you live or how much you drive you may have to replace the OEM filter 3 or 4 times a year, so the aftermarket filter pays for itself. As far as the intake runner, less restrictive is beneficial, same as exhaust.
Most who do find it hard to keep their foot out of it cause it sounds and pulls so much better. If they didnt work, why do we keep buying and building them???
What's more restrictive: A dirty air filter that limits your manifold pressure to a maximumm of 99 kPa (out of 101) at 2000 rpm, while driving down the highway, or the THROTTLE plate that limits you to 65kPa to maintain crusing speeds. So, what's the major cause of the restriction?

They do improve power... that's why I have one.
 

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I have the K&N cai on my 3.5. It was my first mod. Did not really see any real improvements on gas mileage (it didn't go down either). However, it certianly has quicker throttle response and has a better acceleration, particluarly at higher RPMs. It is also louder than stock once you get up over 4000 RPMs. I like the sound.
 

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My CAI I made myself works just fine. More power above 4500RPM and louder too. Between that and the cat gut I went from 300 miles per tank to 360 miles per tank.
 
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