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My latest report, running T6, ran it for 7,500 miles this time, looking good! I think I will stick with 7,500 mile change intervals. T6 for the prior report also.

No heavy towing, just pulling a trailer with 3 dirt bikes and a bed full of gear to Utah 2X, so about 1.5K miles doing that on this interval. The rest is just general daily driving. The truck rarely gets "short tripped" though, we have a plug in hybrid now for that stuff. The truck has an easy life :cool:
 

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Here is my latest sample at 25K miles. I change and sample every 5K given such a sump volume and all the nasties modern diesels now add. I am using Mobil 1 ESP 0W40 which has a Viscosity 100c of 12.9 new which is on the thinner side of 40W oil. I am fine with that as it is much higher then new Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 which woudl be at 11.8. I am after the thinner Ow for arctic cold we deal with here in ND. So fare I am very satisfied with this oil. Even though CAT flagged this sample as it dropped out of weight with a V100 of 11.9...it would still be just above new unused 5W30. I have no concerns with dropping out of weight given how close to line this oil starts out with.

jjw
ND
 

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Just ordered some rotella t6 0w40. Thoughts?
I've used it. Works well but I don't have a UOA. It's CJ4 though. The 5W-40 is CK4 and is arguably better based on every other spec except cold flow. But at the end of the day it is a more robust oil than a Dexos 2/ACEA C3 oil.
 

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My latest sample. Switched to Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w-40 last oil change, and used the same stuff for this oil change. Few numbers are higher, some are lower, and it looks like our lab started measure fuel dilution in % now. Will have to see what the trend looks like with this oil this year.

385893
 

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My latest sample: 2017 2.8 Canyon ATX CCLB. Engine now has 27,000 miles and has been trouble free. The OC indicator went off at 7500 however I extended it to 8400. Plan to go to 9000 miles next time.

This is Renewable lubrincants Biosyn HD. This oil is CJ-4 diesel spec and made in Ohio from vegetable oils (Corn, Soy, Canola, etc,,) which are converted to engine lubricants using an esterfication process. This is a considered a Group V oil and has special properties which makes it superior in many ways to hydrocarbon based lubricants. I made the 10w40 by blending the 10w30 and 15w40 together in a 50/50 ratio. The baseline is a virgin sample of the blend. You subtract the baseline values to get the total metals.

Iron -15
Aluminum - 1
Copper - 3

This wear profile is identical to the previous sample I posted in early 2019.

Yes, I know this oil is CJ-4 and not Dexos 2. I don't care. The results speak for themselves.

The elevated manganese and extremely low oil soot 0.1% is from the Amalgamated TDR-FL additive. I've been using this stuff with every fill up on 2 different vehicles and both have the same results. This additive does increase combustion efficiency and reduce soot loading to the DPF and EGR. I believe it contains MMT in addition to other organic or metallic additives not shown in the SDS. This additive does actually work and I have 3 UOAs now which prove it.

 

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My latest sample. Switched to Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w-40 last oil change, and used the same stuff for this oil change. Few numbers are higher, some are lower, and it looks like our lab started measure fuel dilution in % now. Will have to see what the trend looks like with this oil this year.

View attachment 385893
Just switched to this oil, nice to see other using it. Numbers look acceptable, I’ll try and remember next change to get a sample kit to get an idea of how it does.

Many others using Motul xcess 5w40?
 

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Healthy dose of SbDTC in that oil. The anti-scuffing properties likely account for your low wear numbers. I'm not 100% sure but because these antimony compounds are typically organic they probably do not increase the sulphated ash content of the oil meaning no negative effect on the dpf. You don't see that in your run of the mill oils!
 

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Healthy dose of SbDTC in that oil. The anti-scuffing properties likely account for your low wear numbers. I'm not 100% sure but because these antimony compounds are typically organic they probably do not increase the sulphated ash content of the oil meaning no negative effect on the dpf. You don't see that in your run of the mill oils!
All the additives have concentrated a little bit due to evaporation over the year it was in use. This oil loses about 1/2-3/4 quart after 3k miles which requires topping off. After the initial evaporation of the lighter oil fractions the level stays steady until it’s changed.

im not sure about the antimony compound. I do know it acts as a multi-functional additive because it is an antioxidant in addition to having AW properties. It is CJ-4 though so ash is at 1.0%.
 

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Just switched to this oil, nice to see other using it. Numbers look acceptable, I’ll try and remember next change to get a sample kit to get an idea of how it does.

Many others using Motul xcess 5w40?
Yes. Used 5w40 Motul for 4 years in my 2016 2.8L, and had zero issues, using it in my 2020 2.8L.
 

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Use Motul 5w40 here as well. Was using Total Quartz 5w30 but feel that the Motul 5w40 will be better, especially in the Texas summers. I have not done a UOA yet. I have had thoughts of using Rotella t6 5w40 after warranty even if stock.
 

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How do you guys remember to take a sample? I've changed oil on my 2019 car and truck three times each and I've only remembered once! I even had the bottle out in the garage this time, but it's just not part of the process for me.

I do though have the drain bolt size and capacities of the various vehicles I work on written on a wall. Above that today I wrote: "Oil Sample?" Maybe that will help. Maybe I should tape one to my drain pan????
 

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How do you guys remember to take a sample? I've changed oil on my 2019 car and truck three times each and I've only remembered once! I even had the bottle out in the garage this time, but it's just not part of the process for me.

I do though have the drain bolt size and capacities of the various vehicles I work on written on a wall. Above that today I wrote: "Oil Sample?" Maybe that will help. Maybe I should tape one to my drain pan????
I use a sample pump. Its a hand pump that creates a vacuum in the sample bottle and pulls the hot oil through a 1/4” plastic tubing. Amsoil sells them for like $30. You may also be able to find them online.

It’s what I do right before the oil is drained while it’s hot and mixed up. Just remember to cut a fresh piece of 1/4” tubing each time to avoid contamination of the sample.
 

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Here’s my latest report. 20,000 miles. Some heavy towing. Florida truck. Mobil 1 5W/30 ESP.

Text Font Parallel


Land vehicle Tire Vehicle Car Motor vehicle
 
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Not for nothing, but I honestly think the Mfg's spec a "certain, exact oil" for 2 reasons : 1) to discourage non-motorheads from trying to change their own oil - or having it changed at a fast lube place. & 2) Have just one more fail-safe for themselves to deny an expensive warranty claim.

Seriously though, if there was an oil on the market that was total junk & made engines self destruct, we would know about it in very short order. There are a LOT of cheapskates out there. Even w-mart & Amazon oil gets decent reviews.

In the end, as long as the oil you use meets or exceeds the specs of your vehicle, your good IMHO. Sometimes it really is that simple. If it is a gas motor, use the appropriate oil. If it is a diesel, use the appropriate oil. I think the UOA on this thread speak for themselves. In the end, I think we all want our vehicles engine to last as long as possible. This thread also proves that is possible, even if not using the "exact oil" specified by Mfg.

Even if your dealer is the ONLY one that ever changed your oil & something happens, you are NOT safe. I worked with someone who did that. Had all the receipts. Dealer sent engine oil sample to GM. GM said warranty denied because of wrong oil. GM told owner "that's between you & your dealer, not you & us." He fought it for 9 months & just gave up because he could not afford to hire an attorney. We worked with 300 other people & there were MANY of us who stopped in & said we were looking to buy a new vehicle but not here because of what you did to our friend. It made no difference. That was 2009, they are still in business today.
 

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Were they correct that you didn't put in 6 quarts of oil between changes?
That’s correct. I must of filled out the form incorrectly. I added zero oil between changes.
 

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Here is mine at 30K. I did at a Catch Can that has been keeping crazy amounts of water from getting into the system. Oil temps do not get very warm (not enough to boil off) most of the winter. I am fine with the V100 level that shows it dropping into the 30W range. I know I could go longer then 5K intervals but the tiny case capacity of 6 quarts is not much reserve. Will continue to run the Mobil 0W40 ESP oil.

jjw
ND
 

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Here is mine at 30K. I did at a Catch Can that has been keeping crazy amounts of water from getting into the system. Oil temps do not get very warm (not enough to boil off) most of the winter. I am fine with the V100 level that shows it dropping into the 30W range. I know I could go longer then 5K intervals but the tiny case capacity of 6 quarts is not much reserve. Will continue to run the Mobil 0W40 ESP oil.

jjw
ND
The water it’s catching is coming from the engine crankcase due to low temps and condensation. Not really something to worry about catching other than if it really is ice causing bent turbo fins. Haven’t heard that topic pop up in a while.


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