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I tried to lookup a fitment for my 2017 Diesel and Optima’s website says none exist. What battery did they tell you works? I saw their write up about Pureflow but nothing more.

EDIT: I dug some more and found it. But it is not for the diesel, only gas. Oh well. I am still looking a good AGM.
The H8 / Group 49 big boy battery is what you want for the diesel.

Costco is weird this way, they literally did not want to sell me a battery for my kid's Mazda 6. As long as the battery physically fits in the tray and at least meets the CCA spec of the OEM battery it will work, it is not rocket science. Finally got Costco to sell me the battery if I agreed to void the warranty. That guy really did not want to sell the battery. I persisted as I like the Interstate batteries they carry at Costco, and it was about $50 less than the "official" battery at AutoZone. Whatever, the car starts and runs. That is all I care about :LOL:
 

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The H8 / Group 49 big boy battery is what you want for the diesel.

Costco is weird this way, they literally did not want to sell me a battery for my kid's Mazda 6. As long as the battery physically fits in the tray and at least meets the CCA spec of the OEM battery it will work, it is not rocket science. Finally got Costco to sell me the battery if I agreed to void the warranty. That guy really did not want to sell the battery. I persisted as I like the Interstate batteries they carry at Costco, and it was about $50 less than the "official" battery at AutoZone. Whatever, the car starts and runs. That is all I care about :LOL:
You mean because it wasn't "correct" for the car??
 

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You mean because it wasn't "correct" for the car??
Ya, according to their computer the Interstate battery was not supposed to be for my kid's car. Of course it dropped right in, had a lip on the bottom for the retention rod / clamp thingie, and it had more CCA than OEM. Whatever - it is a 12 volt battery. If it physically fits in the tray and has proper cranking amps, it will work.
 
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Ya, according to their computer the Interstate battery was not supposed to be for my kid's car. Of course it dropped right in, had a lip on the bottom for the retention rod / clamp thingie, and it had more CCA than OEM. Whatever - it is a 12 volt battery. If it physically fits in the tray and has proper cranking amps, it will work.
I guess next time ask them what that battery fits and buy it for that vehicle?? ahahaha
 
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I guess next time ask them what that battery fits and buy it for that vehicle?? ahahaha
Hah how stupid, well I looked up something that works:
2004 Dodge Sprinter 3500 with the 2.7L diesel.

That should allow someone to keep their warranty (which is stupid as hell that you have to do that).
 

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Know nothing about batteries or battery testing, but my 4-yo (original) battery has been progressively turning the engine slower when I start. I had it tested yesterday when my tires were rotated, and I was told it's still good. Are these battery tests reliable?
 

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Know nothing about batteries or battery testing, but my 4-yo (original) battery has been progressively turning the engine slower when I start. I had it tested yesterday when my tires were rotated, and I was told it's still good. Are these battery tests reliable?
depends on who tests it and with what. If you know it's cranking slow I would get one now.
 

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Next time you're running around just turn on the headlamps and watch the DIC voltage display. It doesn't change right away it takes the input and sits on it for 1 to 2 minutes. Once it starts it's trip uphill you will see that it will mosey up and hold at 13.8 or in that general vicinity. The only caveat to this is a deceleration which will run it up to 14+ and as soon as you hit the go pedal or come to a stop it will fall right back to 13.8 if the lights are still on.

I'm interested if your 16 model year works similarly to the 18 model year.
Success!
Did a good test today, drove a couple hundred miles so I was able to test. 14.0 volts seems to be the norm with nothing on cruising down the highway.

Turn on headlamps, instantly went down to 13.8, varied between that and 13.7 for the whole test (about 15 minutes, twice)
Turn on high blower, nothing at all, steady 14.0, did that for about 3 minutes, got annoying. Tried it twice, once with AC, once without.
Turn on tow haul mode, multiple times tested, same every time, after right about 35 seconds it started to climb, over about 1 minutes time it went to 14.7 and stayed there. Turn off tow/haul, after right about 65 seconds starts to drop slowly back to 14.0, took a little over a minute to go back to 14.0.
So...... Tow/haul kicked it up to 14.7 volts every time.
 

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Success!
Did a good test today, drove a couple hundred miles so I was able to test. 14.0 volts seems to be the norm with nothing on cruising down the highway...
We forum maniacs are glad to be of assistance in giving you something to do to pass the time during a long road trip. No way any normal person does this sort of thing otherwise 😆
 

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From the Upfitter Manual (just a portion of the relevant section)

Commanded Duty Cycle Generator Output Voltage
10% 11 V
20% 11.56 V
30% 12.12 V
40% 12.68 V
50% 13.25 V
60% 13.81 V
70% 14.37 V
80% 14.94 V
90% 15.5 V
The generator provides a feedback signal of the generator voltage output through the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to the ECM. This information is sent to the body control module (BCM). The signal is PWM signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0–100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–99 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes.
Battery Sulfation Mode
The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.
Charge Mode
The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met.
The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds.
GMLAN (Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request) is true, as sensed by the HVAC control head. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode.
The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F).
Battery State of Charge is less than 80 percent.
Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph)
Current sensor fault exists.
System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 V
When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.
Fuel Economy Mode
The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 amperes and greater than −8 amperes,
and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80 percent. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.
Head lamp Mode
The BCM will enter Head lamp Mode whenever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.
Start Up Mode
When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 seconds.
Voltage Reduction Mode
The BCM will enter Voltage Reduction Mode when the calculated ambient air temperature is above 0°C (32°F). The calculated battery current is less than 1 ampere and greater than −7 amperes, and the generator field duty cycle
is less than 99 percent. Its targeted generator output voltage is 12.9 V. The BCM will exit this mode once the criteria are met for Charge Mode.
Then there is a whole section on “Load Shedding” that has a long table with entries like this:
Load Shed 2 Start
Battery has a net loss greater than 12 Ah, then
Rear Defrost, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, HVAC cycled OFF for 50% of their cycle. The BATTERY SAVER
ACTIVE message will be displayed on the DIC
 

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I started a thread that relates several months ago. I have a camper on my truck that has a battery isolater that kicks in at 13.3 volts. I bought myself one of these to easily monitor voltage. Turning the lights on seems to do the trick to keep alternator running. 61Ix-BmN+2L__AC_SL1058_.jpg
 

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We forum maniacs are glad to be of assistance in giving you something to do to pass the time during a long road trip. No way any normal person does this sort of thing otherwise 😆
Well, I'm far from normal, I enjoyed doing the little test. lol
I never did the wiper test though, no rain and I don't want to scratch my windshield. ahaha
 

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I started a thread that relates several months ago. I have a camper on my truck that has a battery isolater that kicks in at 13.3 volts. I bought myself one of these to easily monitor voltage. Turning the lights on seems to do the trick to keep alternator running. View attachment 405421
Lights didn't work on mine, tow/haul mode did. 2016 V6
 

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Success!
Did a good test today, drove a couple hundred miles so I was able to test. 14.0 volts seems to be the norm with nothing on cruising down the highway.
That will not always be the case. If your battery is within a normal state of charge range the truck will often allow the voltage to drop to 12.6v cruising on the hwy. It will kick up the voltage to top off the battery if voltage becomes low.
 

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That will not always be the case. If your battery is within a normal state of charge range the truck will often allow the voltage to drop to 12.6v cruising on the hwy. It will kick up the voltage to top off the battery if voltage becomes low.
I know it seems weird it never hit "mpg mode" or whatever. I'm sure this stuff changes by many factors one of them being battery condition and temp. It did jump to 15v after it sat for a few hours and quickly went down to 14v.
I'm just reporting what I saw and 14 volts was it's number cruising at 70mph for about 170 miles and 65 deg temps.
 

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Depending on your state of charge it can take a few minutes to reach the upper 13's. But it does work for me every time.
It's possible my battery is not in the best shape, or yours is crap IDK, but is what it is.
But your high 13s was my norm and the tow/haul mode kicked it up to 14.7 every time.
 

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It's possible my battery is not in the best shape, or yours is crap IDK, but is what it is.
But your high 13s was my norm and the tow/haul mode kicked it up to 14.7 every time.
I will be trying the tow.haul mode. It does make sense you would want higher voltages in that mode.
 

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Why do you need the alternator on all the time? This is an AGM battery in the diesel. It does not need to be charged every waking second that the diesel engine is operating. GM has had a lot of quality control issues with these batteries. I had mine go dead from my dash cam and the body shop tried to start it with one of those plug in the wall battery chargers and that fried the battery. Guy at napa told me its constantly an issue with the AGM ac delco batteries. Mine was about 2 years old when it died. If you try to run a non AGM battery in this truck the function of this charge system will destroy it quickly. An AGM should live a long life with it, as long as its not the crap GM One.
 

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I will be trying the tow.haul mode. It does make sense you would want higher voltages in that mode.
Well if you have a travel trailer with a battery you want to charge or keep up it does, but not anything else I can thing of. You know?
 
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