Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge!
461 - 480 of 507 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
Found it. Now i got everything more or less set up. The boost is kind of wonky so I'll look for absolute manifold pressure later i guess. CACT kind of sucks since it looks to be preintercooler temps but i got whats important. Now i just need to play with ranges and alert %. If you ever find yourself in middle of south central PA I probably owe you a beer for saving me a few 100$ on a monitor.
I'll have to connect to my truck to find out what I'm using for boost, but the PID I'm using for that is working correctly. Problem with MAP is that won't be accurate without subtracting the actual atmospheric pressure that is read by the MAP sensor (MAP - ATM = boost/vacuum), otherwise you'll be looking at a boost reading that's high by ~14-15psi.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
That works in Torque, not in OBDFusion.
Gotcha, didn't know you were using OBDFusion since that wasn't mentioned.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
I'll have to connect to my truck to find out what I'm using for boost, but the PID I'm using for that is working correctly. Problem with MAP is that won't be accurate without subtracting the actual atmospheric pressure that is read by the MAP sensor (MAP - ATM = boost/vacuum), otherwise you'll be looking at a boost reading that's high by ~14-15psi.
It actualy doesnt go below 0. If i lift it just drops to 0 and never pulls a vacuum. Honestly I dont really NEED it, its more like are you really driving something with boost if you dont have a boost gauge? kind of thing.

one nice thing would be some kind of either dpf meter or regen notice. Not sure if they have sensors for that or not i haven;t fully looked at all the stuff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
It actualy doesnt go below 0. If i lift it just drops to 0 and never pulls a vacuum. Honestly I dont really NEED it, its more like are you really driving something with boost if you dont have a boost gauge? kind of thing.
Mine goes below zero and shows me pulling 2-3psi vacuum at idle. You have to edit the gauge in Torque to override the minimum default value of 0. I use -5psi as the minimum. Similar deal with OBD2AA if you're playing with that, set the minimum to -5 or so.

EDIT: Here’s a video showing the Torque “Turbo Boost and Vacuum Gauge”


one nice thing would be some kind of either dpf meter or regen notice. Not sure if they have sensors for that or not i haven;t fully looked at all the stuff
I'm not sure about Torque, but the PIDs/status is there somewhere because BlueDriver is able to display regen status as well as average distance between regens. I think there's also a soot% PID but I'd have to look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Mine goes below zero and shows me pulling 2-3psi vacuum at idle. You have to edit the gauge in Torque to override the minimum default value of 0. I use -5psi as the minimum. Similar deal with OBD2AA if you're playing with that, set the minimum to -5 or so.



I'm not sure about Torque, but the PIDs/status is there somewhere because BlueDriver is able to display regen status as well as average distance between regens. I think there's also a soot% PID but I'd have to look.
I saw the soot PPM but not sure if that is pre dpf or how full it is or what. Also i put the range of -30 to 30 for the boost. Do i have to make torque gauges too? I just put them in odb2aa and it "worked". By work i mean it did a whole lot of sitting at 0 lol. Is there like a list of PIDs somewhere in this thread?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
I saw the soot PPM but not sure if that is pre dpf or how full it is or what. Also i put the range of -30 to 30 for the boost. It did a whole lot of sitting at 0 lol. Is there like a list of PIDs somewhere in this thread?
I updated my post above to include a link to a video I just took showing the boost gauge displaying vacuum at idle in both Torque and OBD2AA, so if you’re only seeing 0 then it must be user error. Only other thing I can think of it being is your OBD2 adapter. I’m using an OBDLink MX+ here.

No idea about a pid list.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: shtboxbrz

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
I updated my post above to include a link to a video I just took showing the boost gauge displaying vacuum at idle in both Torque and OBD2AA, so if you’re only seeing 0 then it must be user error. Only other thing I can think of it being is your OBD2 adapter. I’m using an OBDLink MX+ here.

No idea about a pid list.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yeah that wasnt what mine looked like. But i also didnt make any gauges in torque so i guess ill do that and then set them in that too. I thought setting them in odb2aa would be enough
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
Yeah that wasnt what mine looked like. But i also didnt make any gauges in torque so i guess ill do that and then set them in that too. I thought setting them in odb2aa would be enough
Setting them in OBD2AA was enough for me, prior to taking the video tonight the Torque app on my phone was showing 0 until I edited it. :D Here's what I have in OBD2AA
Font Material property Rectangle Parallel Screenshot
 
  • Like
Reactions: shtboxbrz

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
I can at least say it's within the data stream because I have it monitored, see below. What's interesting is watching how it turns on and off depending on certain conditions before it completes a regen.

Plant Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
damn it now odb2AA just crashes every time i plug it in. i guess ill wipe both and reinstall it and torque
It is a little finicky and if you rebooted your phone you have to go back into Android Auto settings and start the head unit server again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
It is a little finicky and if you rebooted your phone you have to go back into Android Auto settings and start the head unit server again.
I cleared the cache and uninstalled both and installed them both and now it works. some saved data clearly got corrupted. Now i just need to adjust the ranges again. I think i need to do that in torque too because my dials are all wonky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
I cleared the cache and uninstalled both and installed them both and now it works. some saved data clearly got corrupted. Now i just need to adjust the ranges again. I think i need to do that in torque too because my dials are all wonky
You shouldn't have to do anything in Torque except add the extra GM PIDs for them to show up in the OBD2AA PID list. OBD2AA isn't mirroring any gauges from Torque itself, it's just hooking into Torque to read PID data. Torque dashboard/gauges are 100% independent of OBD2AA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
You shouldn't have to do anything in Torque except add the extra GM PIDs for them to show up in the OBD2AA PID list. OBD2AA isn't mirroring any gauges from Torque itself, it's just hooking into Torque to read PID data. Torque dashboard/gauges are 100% independent of OBD2AA.
weird I guess i need to play with the ranges more. i was at 160f and the gauge was like 3/4ths the way up on trans temp even tho i set the max to 260f
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
weird I guess i need to play with the ranges more. i was at 160f and the gauge was like 3/4ths the way up on trans temp even tho i set the max to 260f
For 0-260, 160 would be just over 60% of the range. For the top line of temp gauges (coolant, oil, trans) I set the range to 0-300 for all of them, it makes it easier to tell at a glance which temps are getting up there relative to the others.

I've adjusted the Boost gauge to be -5-30, the EGT is 0-1600, and CACT is also 0-300. CACT may get the upper limit increased, we'll see how hot it gets towing up grades. Quick acceleration onto the freeway can push it well over 200F but I haven't seen 300F yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
For 0-260, 160 would be just over 60% of the range. For the top line of temp gauges (coolant, oil, trans) I set the range to 0-300 for all of them, it makes it easier to tell at a glance which temps are getting up there relative to the others.

I've adjusted the Boost gauge to be -5-30, the EGT is 0-1600, and CACT is also 0-300. CACT may get the upper limit increased, we'll see how hot it gets towing up grades. Quick acceleration onto the freeway can push it well over 200F but I haven't seen 300F yet.
I deleted CACT because it doesnt mean much imo in the grand scheme of things. Also my ranges were -5 - 30 but i just changed that to 40 since i pegged it flooring it up a hill today testing during lunch, EGT 0-1600 with warnings at 83 and 93 which is rough 1300 and 1400 warnings, oil temp 120-250, trans temp 100-260 with warnings at 92 and 96 which is ball park 240 and 250, coolant which ill probably delete because it is on the dash but 160-260

So it should have been about 1/3rd the way there id think. gonna test it more after work. also i want to see if i can play around and figure out some kind of regen notice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
coolant which ill probably delete because it is on the dash but 160-260
This is one you definitely don't want to delete, the dash gauge lies and is just pre-programmed to show "normal" temps regardless of what the actual temp is unless it's WAY overheating. The dash gauge with the diesel will read ~197F as long as the actual coolant temp is like 160-165F minimum and it still read ~197F when the PID was showing ~220F (towing up a grade in Colorado at WOT for a few minutes). The coolant gauge on the gassers seems to display reality, but because diesel coolant temps can swing quite a bit I'm sure GM though it would be best to display a stationary "normal" temp on the dash gauge as long as the coolant was within a predefined range in order to minimize the number of calls about potential cooling issues. As such, you won't know there's an overheating problem until you're actually overheating. Dumb choice on GM's part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
This is one you definitely don't want to delete, the dash gauge lies and is just pre-programmed to show "normal" temps regardless of what the actual temp is unless it's WAY overheating. The dash gauge with the diesel will read ~197F as long as the actual coolant temp is like 160-165F minimum and it still read ~197F when the PID was showing ~220F (towing up a grade in Colorado at WOT for a few minutes). The coolant gauge on the gassers seems to display reality, but because diesel coolant temps can swing quite a bit I'm sure GM though it would be best to display a stationary "normal" temp on the dash gauge as long as the coolant was within a predefined range in order to minimize the number of calls about potential cooling issues. As such, you won't know there's an overheating problem until you're actually overheating. Dumb choice on GM's part.
Well **** i will be adding it back in. But i found a post on an L5P forum saying this PID works for soot load. I put it in and I spit out 63% soot load and im at 1/2 a tank so that is ball park right. It also went up after driving for about 20 minutes. The PID is 01 8B the min value is 0 max is 100 with 1x scaling and the equation is (100/255)*C Also here is what I was talking about the gauges not really listening to me on range
 

Attachments

461 - 480 of 507 Posts
Top