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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm posting to see if anyone else has had this issue. On Friday, as I got into my ZR2 I noticed there was some sort of computer module hanging out from the drivers side dash and laying on the gas pedal. Upon further examination, I found one side of the module has two sided tape which has evidently failed. Seems like a pretty poor setup if that's really all that secures it in place. I attempted to put it back, only to have it fall off again about an hour later. On the plus side, I've had a rattle coming from that area, and my guess is I've found the culprit.

I took it to the dealer this afternoon, but they said no way they could get it done in the five hours before close despite me having an appointment. Also, they wouldn't give me a rental car for the night. As a result, I rescheduled to take it in early Wednesday. I will update with more information then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well the dealer, reinstalled the module and confirmed it is indeed held in place with tape. Seems like a silly design for an "off road" truck, but we'll see if it stays in place this time.

Also, I had them look at my key fob because it's taking 6-8 pushes of the button to lock the doors. They said the system is designed to ignore a lock command if the fob is too close to the vehicle and I needed to stand further away. Tonight I took about twenty steps before locking it, and it did the same thing every time. So, back to the shop it goes yet again.
 

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PN comes back as an interior lamp controller for a Volt! That's a vehicle I didn't expect us to share parts with.

The fob thing smells like dealer BS. I've locked my truck from damn near inside it with no issues. Does it do it with both fobs, and secondly, does the My Chevrolet unlock app lag as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
PN comes back as an interior lamp controller for a Volt! That's a vehicle I didn't expect us to share parts with.

The fob thing smells like dealer BS. I've locked my truck from damn near inside it with no issues. Does it do it with both fobs, and secondly, does the My Chevrolet unlock app lag as well?
Both fobs have the same issue. It takes so many button pushes that I enough time to turn around and point the fob at the truck in desperation before the horn finally honks. The chevy app seems to always have a bit of a lag, but works on the first attempt.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
My fob often takes several presses to unlock the passenger doors.

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Weird. My unlock and remote start functions work flawlessly every time. Oddly enough so does the lock feature when I'm approaching the truck during a remote start situation. But after shutting the truck off and walking away it always takes many attempts. Even more strange is that this didn't start until about a month into ownership. It used to work great.
 

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wow I just had to say a dealer couldn't fix it with 5hrs left in the day XD. Sounds like it might be time for another dealer. My fob works first time unlocking and twice to lock with horn.
 

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wow I just had to say a dealer couldn't fix it with 5hrs left in the day XD. Sounds like it might be time for another dealer. My fob works first time unlocking and twice to lock with horn.
Yeah, that's the other thing. Mine takes several times to get the horn chirp confirmation as well. Hmmm.

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The horn chirp is changeable in the settings. I turned mine 'off' but if you keep pressing the FOB (at least twice) it will chirp the horn to let you know, "Hey, man! I got it. The doors are locked. Chill!" Or something like that.
 
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My fob works the first time, every time. Even inside the truck, back when I was testing the wiring for my tailgate lock. It's a little finnicky on the timing for remote-start but I've never felt it was failing outright. I'm wondering if it's the area you're in. My Viper was impossible to lock/unlock at my office, apparently the nearby radio station drowned out the signal. I've read about similar RF interference issues with other vehicles.

Amazing they just tape that module in place, particularly where it could fall on your foot on the accelerator pedal while driving... At the very least poke a couple holes and give us a damned 0.01-cent zip tie!
 

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The tape is not shocking as some tape today is damn near impossible to remove in some cases.

The fob sounds almost the a antenna problem?

Mine works from 100 yards away at work from the Third floor to inside the cab.

Won’t work because you are too close?

Sounds like a bad service department .
 

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Mine sometimes won’t honk the horn but all the doors are locked or unlocked, and it’s usually it’s because I’ve been in one of the back doors on my crew cab and the door wasn’t closed all the way I find I have to close the rear doors pretty hard for them to be considered closed by the truck oddly enough it never causes an open door alert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
We can't retape that on for you within five hours even though you have an appointment.

Your fob won't work properly because you are too close.

I would find a new service department.
It's almost like a bad joke right? I was speechless when I was told to come back Wednesday because 5hrs wasn't enough time to print a manual, tape a module, and look at my fob; however, the fact this dealer is one mile from my house vs 35 minutes (or over an hour if it's rush hour) to the next closest dealer is hard to pass up. It's been a long week for a lot of us here so I'll give them one more chance.

Overall though, I have not been impressed with GM service departments. I've had warranty work done twice now at two different dealers, and it's never been been a pleasant experience. I feel like I'm pulling teeth to get anything done. The first time was at the dealership where I bought the truck. It was in limp mode with 97 miles on the odometer and a grand total of 18hrs of ownership, yet I was told "we're really busy, I don't know if I can get you in today.":censored:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here is the invoice in case anyone is curious. I tried re-closing all my doors as was suggested above to no avail. This happens regardless of whether I'm in my garage, a parking lot, or the middle of literal nowhere so I really don't think it's RF interference. I will be taking it back again, but I have to go to FL for some training this month so it probably won't get looked at again until NOV. I'll hopefully update with a resolution then.
 

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It makes no sense at all that the locks would be set up to disable activation at high signal strength. The received signal amplitude probably varies by 20:1 just by how you hold the fob.

My locks had always worked from inside the cab, bed or any other close or distant location. I did have an issue a few weeks ago where the lights would flash as expected but the locks would not operate. That indicated that the receiver (located above headliner center on crew cab) was working and that the signal was getting to the chassis controller (located above rear of spare tire).

I had pressure washed the truck the day before, which I'll stop doing. I lowered the spare to gain access and pulled the chassis controller connector. I blew both sides out with compressed air, hit the contacts with a little contact cleaner, followed up with a little dielectric grease and made sure the connector was firmly seated and latched. All has been fine since.

This may not have anything to do with others lock issues but it's something to check/eliminate anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It makes no sense at all that the locks would be set up to disable activation at high signal strength. The received signal amplitude probably varies by 20:1 just by how you hold the fob.

My locks had always worked from inside the cab, bed or any other close or distant location. I did have an issue a few weeks ago where the lights would flash as expected but the locks would not operate. That indicated that the receiver (located above headliner center on crew cab) was working and that the signal was getting to the chassis controller (located above rear of spare tire).

I had pressure washed the truck the day before, which I'll stop doing. I lowered the spare to gain access and pulled the chassis controller connector. I blew both sides out with compressed air, hit the contacts with a little contact cleaner, followed up with a little dielectric grease and made sure the connector was firmly seated and latched. All has been fine since.

This may not have anything to do with others lock issues but it's something to check/eliminate anyway.
Good tip, thanks. I'll check it out.
 

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Mine sometimes won’t honk the horn but all the doors are locked or unlocked, and it’s usually it’s because I’ve been in one of the back doors on my crew cab and the door wasn’t closed all the way I find I have to close the rear doors pretty hard for them to be considered closed by the truck oddly enough it never causes an open door alert.
That is very odd! Try lubing the latches, it might do the trick.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Which dealership are you going to? Hopefully not the Henderson one...
I bought from the dealer on East Sahara because they were the only one with ZR2s in stock. I actually felt like they treated me pretty well other than having to convince them they most certainly had time to work on my day old truck. I just hate the drive up there. Between the long merge lane from 215E to 15N thats almost always stop and go and the Sahara curse, it's almost always a painful experience. This week I was dealing with the one in SW Vegas as it's literally walking distance from my place.

Sounds like I should rule out the Henderson dealer as a future option?
 
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