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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been reading here about injector failures and seen mentions of new part numbers for the 2019+. Has anyone swapped in the new injectors as a preventative measure? Or is avoiding tunes, regular maintenance, additives, or catch cans the answer to getting the best odds at reliability?
 

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Don’t waste money switching injectors if you don’t have to.

There are many things we ‘should’ change. But if we did the cost of ownership for a 5 year old truck would literally be more than what you paid new.

This isn’t an F35. Tow trucks exist.
 

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Don’t waste money switching injectors if you don’t have to.

There are many things we ‘should’ change. But if we did the cost of ownership for a 5 year old truck would literally be more than what you paid new.

This isn’t an F35. Tow trucks exist.
haha loving the F35 reference since it's been plagued with fuel issues as well. Thankfully our truck wont explode if struck by lightning, and also we can put any temp of fuel in it without the engine shutting down.
 

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Additives to add lubricity back to the "dry" ultra low sulfur diesel sold in the US is probably the best way. Coming from someone who learned the hard way - #3 injector gone at 78,000. I didn't regularly use an additive before then but don't run a tank through it now without additive, Power Services Diesel Kleen in my case.
 

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haha loving the F35 reference since it's been plagued with fuel issues as well. Thankfully our truck wont explode if struck by lightning, and also we can put any temp of fuel in it without the engine shutting down.
All B-1’s grounded for the time being, also related to fuel (filter adversely impacted the fuel pump IIRC).
 

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Fuel filters every 10k miles. 2oz Hot shot secret every other tank. Drain some fuel out without treatment then compare how “dry” it felt to a tank with good fuel additives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Additives to add lubricity back to the "dry" ultra low sulfur diesel sold in the US is probably the best way. Coming from someone who learned the hard way - #3 injector gone at 78,000. I didn't regularly use an additive before then but don't run a tank through it now without additive, Power Services Diesel Kleen in my case.
Ouch, at 78k?? That's sort've why I made this post; if it's 1-2k for new injectors now vs. much more later for a new engine. What did you end up doing when your engine went kaput?
 

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Fuel filters every 10k miles.
That's a total waste, but your truck and wallet. Fuel filters aren't like oil filters that have a bypass mode, you can run them down to 0% and they'll still be filtering just as well if not better than a fresh filter. Our diesel here in IL is a biodiesel blend so it has great lubricity right off the bat but I run HSS EDT with every tank since I like how it runs with the higher cetane.
 
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Things that make you go hmmm...

GM now recommends fuel with the TOP TIER additive package, in my area that's the few Costco's that carry diesel. Hilariously, GM did not recommend using additives or enhanced fuel in my owners manual but now says that if you cannot find stations with the TOP TIER diesel you should use their additives: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10184500-9999.pdf
 

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Ouch, at 78k?? That's sort've why I made this post; if it's 1-2k for new injectors now vs. much more later for a new engine. What did you end up doing when your engine went kaput?
The #3 injector damaged the head and they had to replace the entire head assembly. Luckily, the piston wasn't damaged. They never elaborated on exactly what the damage was but just said that the tolerances on this head were so tight that it couldn't be machined. Also luckily, it was covered under the extended warranty I purchased. The warranty company paid a little over $6500 to replace the injector and the head assembly. I was without the truck for about 45 days total. I have put about 5,000 more miles on the truck since then with no issues. And as I said, I haven't run a tank through it since I got it back that didn't have additive. I suspect (don't know for sure and can't prove it) that the Sam's Club diesel I was buying almost exclusively for 9 months prior to the event had something to do with the failure. I wasn't using additive and just before the failure, I accelerated pretty hard up a small incline to pull out between cars on a busy road while pulling my camping trailer. My theory is that the surge of fuel that probably was untreated "dry" ultra low sulfur diesel from Sam's Club caused the injector to be damaged. If the fuel had been treated with additive, the extra lubricity from the additive might have prevented the failure. At least that's my working theory with no way to prove it. I just use additive every tank now and hope for the best. I also try to avoid full throttle hard takeoffs with the camper in tow now.
 

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Here is an interesting video on how injectors wear due to water, contamination and "dry" fuel. The video shows the parts of the injector that wear. Tolerances inside the injector as tight as 1.3 to 1.5 microns. Too bad about the stupid music, but ya gotta love the Aussies 😆


My strategy from day 1 has been to use lubricity/cleaning additive with each and every fill up. Recently added a 2 micron Racor marine filter and water separator after the OEM filter box and before the hard line to the high pressure fuel pump with success. The added filter is no problem at all for the OEM lift pump, it did not even register on the Fuel Filter Life screen, which uses system back pressure (which increases as the filter gets dirty) to calculate filter life. 3,000 miles on it so far, nothing visible in it's clear bowl, which is what one would hope for. Dunno if the add on filter/water separator is overkill, but it sure is not hurting anything :cool:

The add on filter setup is easy to install on a crew cab long bed truck, tougher on crew cab short boxes due to the tighter working space. Dunno about the shorter cab long box setup - I don't know anyone with a diesel ZR2.
 
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