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ARC 2016 Z71 Diesel Colorado//Stock to Exploration//2019-???--PIC HEAVY

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#1 · (Edited)
 
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#2 · (Edited)
PHASE 1 - Daily Life

2016 Z71 Crew Cab Short Bed Diesel Colorado
Tire Wheel Vehicle Grille Car


[REMOVED] Bakflip G2

[INSTALLED] Sapphire V1 Ceramic Coating
Never wax + easier wash + hydrophobic + protection
Communication Device Gadget Automotive exterior Portable communications device Bumper


[INSTALLED] Weathertech front & rear floor liners + 360* sunshades (TX was hot)
Grey Wood Road surface Font Rectangle


[INSTALLED] DECKED Truck Storage System+Dividers+L Tracks
Corona always seems appropriate for wrenching on things after growing up on Fast & Furious movies
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood


[INSTALLED] Mann Provent 200 Catch Can because oil in intake =/= longevity
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[INSTALLED] Coverking Neoprene seat covers
Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Car seat cover


[COMPLETE] AJT Designs Key Fob Swap (Bad-donkey + Waterproof
Bicycle part Key Keychain Font Jewellery


[INSTALLED] Center Console Organizer

[INSTALLED] NFAB RKR Rails with removable steps
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Netbook Automotive exterior


[INSTALLED] Colorado Powered Accessories Mount (CPAM)
Land vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Air gun Vehicle


[INSTALLED] ZR2 ROKBLOKS
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 
#3 · (Edited)
PHASE 1.5 - Offroad Power Prep

[INSTALLED] HD Mil type battery terminals
Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Auto part Automotive exterior


[INSTALLED] SWITCH PROS 9100
Interior
Gadget Audio equipment Gas Auto part Machine


PowerTray Setup
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[INSTALLED] Samlex 600W Pure Sine Wave Inverter + 120v Oultets front+rear
Audio equipment Electricity Electrical wiring Gadget Electronic engineering


Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Asphalt Grey


Hood Luggage and bags Motor vehicle Bag Auto part
 
#4 · (Edited)
PHASE 2 - Offroad
[INSTALLED] ARB Summit Front Bumper
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[INSTALLED] Engo 10k winch with Viking Synth Line. "Custom" Solenoid box. lol.
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[INSTALLED] Merchant Automotive HD Tie Rod Sleeves.
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[INSTALLED] Custom King Coilovers, OME HD rear leafs, SPC UCAs, SR Track bar relocation, & Prothane extended end links.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood


[INSTALLED] AEV Snorkel
Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle


[INSTALLED] S&B Cold Air Intake with oiled (on road) and dry media (offroad)
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Black Automotive design


Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Personal luxury car Bag


[INSTALLED] ARB Twin compressor with manifold
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Hood Auto part


Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Automotive design
 
#5 · (Edited)
PHASE 3 - Light/Comms
[INSTALLED] ARB lights
Car Vehicle Tire Automotive tail & brake light Automotive tire


[INSTALLED] RAGO Fabrication tailgate gap antenna mount modified for NMO.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Office equipment


[PREPPED] Modified bullbar light brackets to make NMO antenna mounts
Wood Goggles Personal protective equipment Bicycle part Fashion accessory
 
#6 · (Edited)
PHASE 4 - ARMOR
[INSTALLED] 589fab Skid Support Bracket
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Tire


[INSTALLED] 589fab Ultimate Shock Skids


[INSTALLED] Kaufu Front Skid Plate
Tire Automotive tail & brake light Automotive tire Grille Hood
 
#7 · (Edited)
Garage Porn !

Sockets :love:
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Spare/oversized sockets
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German NWS pliers rebranded by Irwin
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Nothing special, but how nicely these fit together makes me happy.
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Gotta start somewhere... Yellow bins from Harbor Freight medium organizers (black and clear plastic bins)
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This vacuum is a game changer. 18V ?! 20V ?! and a cord ?!
Disclaimer: Do not be alarmed by the HF jack stand. It's from the original run, not the recalled run
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Everyone should have a label maker, especially one that makes heatshrink labels for wiring.
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Anti headache medicine:
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#8 ·
Did some experimenting with battery cable end terminating/crimping. Purchased both lug crimpers (bolt cutter crimpers) and a hydraulic crimper (yellow handle special). Both produced cold welds and excellent ends, but the hydraulic wins for not creating a pinch of excess material. Both the bolt cutter and hydraulic crimper were actually metric and bastardized for AWG, but the hydraulic style evenly applies pressure to the fitting whereas the bolt cutters, by design, start towards the handles and finish at the end, which is where the excess goes.

Dealing with 1/0 AWG & 4AWG Ancor marine grade tinned copper battery cable. Runs about $5-8/ft for 1/0 and $1-2 for 4AWG. Found easily on Amazon and at West Marine stores.
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Bolt cutter style 4AWG for winch (excess copper to the left side...):
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Bolt cutter 1/0 AWG for battery cable:
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Angle grinder cutoff wheel shows a nice cold weld. Not easy to get through:
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Hydraulic yellow handle 1/0 AWG crimp:
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Angle grinder cutoff. Very pleased with it:
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Just for fun, I cut into some factory crimped cables for comparison.
From top to bottom:
Bolt Cutter Crimp 1/0 AWG
Bolt Cutter Crimp 4 AWG
Auto parts store special 4AWG...
Engo original battery cable 4AWG
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Sealed all my new winch cables with marine grade dual wall adhesive heatshrink:
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#10 ·
Thanks ! I know it was just straight up bragging but I was hoping someone would appreciate it.

I'm also an excessive planner. Professionally and personally haha. Build thread is a reflection of the spreadsheet that tracks weight & balance, maintenance checklists, torque specs, and generic stuff I don't want to have to look up every time. Every time I learn something about the truck, or find something I want to do, I'll throw it in my nerd spreadsheet.

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#11 ·
Why do my posts sit "awaiting approval before being displayed publicly" ? That a forum thing now ? (Not saying it wasn't before, but it has not been on previous/other forums I've been a part of)

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#14 ·
I'm of the camp that I'm glad there are people like this so we can see what $15k might look like, even though it'll never be in my budget or interest to do it myself. "Your money, your truck", etc. plus we get a cool thread to follow!
 
#17 ·
Very well organized, you and I are both spreadsheet nerds! I very much appreciate someone who pays close attention to detail. So, I do have a few initial questions/comments:
1. What purpose does the trim removal tool serve for changing the cabin air filter?
2. I have always found the Weathertech floormats to be the best floor liners for keeping out dirt, sand, etc...except in this case (have them in all of my vehicles, except the Canyon). It may surprise you that the OEM GM all weather floorliners are better quality and provide far more coverage than the Weathertech ones, including a lip that covers the sill plate and much taller/longer side walls to protect from dirt getting flung between the rug and liner.
3. Have you considered creating a tool kit for maintenance or repairs in the field? Stuff happens, and it appears you have plenty of spare sockets.
4. What branch did you serve in? The Pelican case, spartan stencil, and tool organization seem to hint at veteran...
 
#18 · (Edited)
Very well organized, you and I are both spreadsheet nerds! I very much appreciate someone who pays close attention to detail. So, I do have a few initial questions/comments:
1. What purpose does the trim removal tool serve for changing the cabin air filter?
2. I have always found the Weathertech floormats to be the best floor liners for keeping out dirt, sand, etc...except in this case (have them in all of my vehicles, except the Canyon). It may surprise you that the OEM GM all weather floorliners are better quality and provide far more coverage than the Weathertech ones, including a lip that covers the sill plate and much taller/longer side walls to protect from dirt getting flung between the rug and liner.
3. Have you considered creating a tool kit for maintenance or repairs in the field? Stuff happens, and it appears you have plenty of spare sockets.
4. What branch did you serve in? The Pelican case, spartan stencil, and tool organization seem to hint at veteran...
0. Really appreciate your input, on all the threads !
1. I honestly have no idea. I've changed it twice now with just a flathead (to remove the stupid glove compartment hinge pins. Do you have a better way of doing this ?)
2. Reeeeaaaalllly. GM actually got that one right ? Damn. Well, the truck came with the original floor mats in the original packaging in the backseat, and they're still that way.
3. I have a toolkit in my decked drawers. A full set of box end wrenchs in a canvas roll, orange big box store special screwdriver with both ends, long flat head screwdriver, adjustable wrenches, small socket set, black rtv, jb weld steel, some 3/8 hosing, vinyl tape, etc...
4. Still active duty; aviator by trade. Don't want to go into any further personal details; I'm sure you understand. Yourself ? Those are pretty intricate details to pick up on without some inside familiarization.
 
#20 ·
Labor day proved very fruitful !

First on the agenda was properly routing the battery cables for my winch and finishing up wiring for that.

I ran 1.5" split loom with 2x 1/0 AWG cables from the winch to the battery:
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Then I spent about 2 hours with my trusty Fluke trying to figure out why the winch wouldn't run... Wiring diagram for the solenoid was incorrect -,- There was no 12v running to the remote, so no way to complete the circuit and engage either the forward or reverse solenoid. Frustrating, but had the opportunity to refamiliarize myself with DC systems.

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Runs like a champ now and I wound it under load so it's good to go, should the occasion call for it this weekend :D

After it ops-checked good, I finalized the wiring. Since I built that solenoid box, I labeled the wires correctly for in vs out on the remote, used clear heat shrink, and then covered them in split loom + zip ties to prevent them from touching each other.

Labelled and heat shrunk:
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Split loom covering each:
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Also if anyone is curious about the ground point driver's side front:

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It's an interesting bolt indeed ! 13mm to remove it and it's an M8x1.25

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#21 ·
After the winch was all set, moved on to Merchant Automotive's HD Tie Rod Sleeves. Really straightforward. Probably 45min to an hour all in, including jacking up the truck, wheel/tire removal, and install.

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Before, demonstrating step 1: Put PB Blaster over literally everything you will be removing. lol
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After:
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During:
The 15 is the number of turns it took to get it off of there, so I could count them as I put it back on. Very effective, as shown by the alignment sheet in the next post.
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#22 ·
Semi-last was to install the GM Performance Leveling kit. Before install, I was sitting at 34.75" measured from the center of the wheel to the fender and after 36.25". Happy with that as the rear is either 36 or 36.25, depending on fuel.
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Pretty straightforward, especially with the tie rods removed already. In total you have to remove the tie rod ends, sway bar links, entire sway bar, ABS sensor, and upper control arm ball joints. Removing the upper control arm was easy, reinstalling was a pain. Ended up using the prybar method, which made me a little nervous.
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Not as nervous as compressing the spring to disassemble the coilovers though !

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Necessary because the GM kit is 2 parts: one part preload space and one part strut spacer.

Preload:
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Strut spacer:
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All reinstalled. At full droop, making sure nothing is going to be overstressed. Used some brake cleaner to clean the rotors since I touched them (a lot) with grease and oil on my hands. Unusual to use brake cleaner on brakes for me, since it's so useful at cleaning almost everything else haha.
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Attachments

#23 ·
Since I was already down there, I figured I would cut back the pinch weld at the rear of the fender.
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Disassembly is pretty easy, though plastic pieces could be destroyed in the process.

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Not sure if this pinch weld is an issue when putting on oversized tires, but turns out it's super easy. Such a mild steel I was able to cut it with a pair of aviation snips and then file off the sharp edges.

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Not the prettiest job :/
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Trim reinstalled.
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#24 ·
Wasn't too far out of alignment after the level and tie rod sleeves either. Unfortunately the tech wouldn't give me anymore positive caster :/

 
#28 ·
[ATTACH type="full" alt="396417" said:
396417[/ATTACH]
I wonder if you could share this as a google doc, quite a few things I would like to mimic. Same for the both of you guys, format for the doc is useful for those of us that have barely any spreadsheet experience. The links are just time saving.
Edit: the above attach error just emphasizes my point....
 
#31 ·
Hello all,

Been awhile but have done a couple things and reordered my priorities for the truck. I installed some NFAB RKR Rails with detachable steps because my chrome/plastic running boards were cutting me (see last picture) when I rolled under the truck. They greatly increased the ground clearance/breakover angle as well.

Not going to use them as rock sliders but I don't have any reservations about the strength of their design. The GM running boards flexed and gave when stepped on, but these are solid according to my calibrated foot sense. Additionally I test lifted the truck with my Hi-Lift on the step and nothing moved, the truck went up until I was uncomfortable going any higher, and came back down just as easily. Hacked some currency with the jack as well, since I don't use it often. Nice to use it in the comfort of my home with internet instead of learning on the trail. Anyway, I digress... I wouldn't want it to rest on the rails, since they're cab mounted (not frame bolted or welded), but GM did a good job with using leverage where they mount and NFAB took full advantage of that. The more weight applied, the more rigid it gets. I'm happy with them, even though they're not true "rock sliders" and have no "kickout". /tacoma talk.

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a




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Not the best picture, but shows the razor sharp chrome pieces. I live fairly far south of the Mason Dixon and in a place that sees snow maybe once a year, so not sure this is road salt but I have driven through road salt before... Regardless, I didn't like them, they were dangerous, and I had a free Saturday. Install was about 3 hours, including removing these running boards. 8 bolts per side, all the same size, made it easy. Some clearance issues, but my lady was able to assist with smaller hands and a stubby wrench.
 
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#32 · (Edited)
After spending a lot of time in a friends truck with some 110v outlets on 4-5hr drives for work trips, I have seen the light and want some in my truck. I have seen some excellent writups like this one I now have 110v and wanted to go that route. Initially I snagged some Bosch style relays, but decided I wouldn't need more than 350W (~3.2A @ 110v, assuming 90% inverter efficiency; 3.2A * 110v = 352W), so the Switch Pros 9100 could be used to power it, just limited to 35A (Worst Case: 10v * 35A = 420W, best case 14.6v * 35A = 511W).

I already owned the PowerTray blank, so I just needed the Blue Sea Systems 2304 5 Gang Common 100A Mini Busbar, Blue Sea Systems Terminal Blocks 20A - 65A, and Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover.

I spent a couple days playing around with the layout until I found one that would work (plenty of room to run 10ga Ancor wires between the wiper reservoir and the tray.

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Plenty of hood clearance as well

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Clearance from Battery

.
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Using transfer punches, I carefully dimpled the locations for drilling
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And then in true Cowboy fashion, changed my plan after reading that water can sit on the SWITCH PRO and void the warranty... Figured out how to mount it vertically using some 3" U Bolt "washers" and a propane torch to make 90* brackets for the SP

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Of course it would decrease lateral clearance, so I made a slight modification to the PowerTray
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Deburred and filed it. Not a nice as the original edge, but definitely wire/abrasion safe
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Fits much better now. Also thermal cycled the brackets just in case there was any stress from the bending (Have watched A LOT of Forged in Fire so I'm pretty much an expert in metallurgy and things of this nature. /sarcasm)
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Carefully oiled and drilled holes with a Cobalt bit
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TO BE CONTINUED...
 
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#33 ·
CON'T from above:

Used 10-24x .75" SS bolts, washers, and nuts to mount everything. I did not drill clearance holes, so the bolts basically secured themselves but I still used washers, nuts, and blue threadlocker for a "definitely" secure.

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Lastly, my OCD took over when plugging in the harnesses for the SWITCHPROS, so when I was putting marine grade adhesive ring connectors on, I also took the time to heatshrink label and heatshrink pair the leads together.
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Ahh, so satisfying :D

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Also added braiding to the power leads. Why don't all cables come like this ?!
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More to follow on how I trigger it, which I haven't decided quite yet.
 
#34 ·
SWITCH PROS Interior install was fairly straightforward. I used the useless cubby between the heated seats buttons/below the rocker switches. Using a trim removal kit I paid way too much for on a large ecommerce site, I removed the trim pieces and routed the control cable through the center console.
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For those of you connector challenged like I am, to remove the heated seats switches you push the tab over that my curved pick is pushing in this pic.
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The controller cable is routed through the main harness plug in the firewall with a little slit. Very soft silicone; would probably seal up by itself but I put a dab of black silicone anyway.

View from between gas/brake pedals
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Split loom once it's in the engine bay. In order to fit my hands/arms, I had to remove the engine covering. The distance between the covering and the dip stick was very small. Also notice the reinstalled oil filler cap, to prevent debris from falling in during the install.
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Once again, 3" U bolt "washers" were the MVP of my install, being used to fill up the depth of the useless cubby. Used a "mistake" bracket from the engine bay fiasco.
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Once I had the brackets made, I butchered the inside of the cubby in an extreme act of vengeance at its uselessness. Drill bit, bigger drill bit, and a rat tail file to open up the corners for the molex plug to pass through.
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Mount it
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Success
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Trim piece pops back in place with six tabs. And yes, the rocker switches do still work.
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#35 ·
Finished installing the PowerTray, SwitchPros SP9100, and Blue Sea Systems today. I did end up having to trim a thin piece of sheet metal near where the Switch Pro controller is; definitely not structural in nature and easily cut with aviation snips. I also made 4AWG cables to transfer ground and positive to Blue Sea Systems separately from the Switch Pro. I know some chain the Switch Pro stud to the Blue Sea Systems, but the direction warn not to do this several times and I have the ability/material to make cables.

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Installed

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From L to Right: Bolt to secure Winch Positive (superstition so I leave it unhooked), Main Battery Bus, Switch Pros 9100, Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block.

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I used the included (!) add a fuse to tap into F17, Front Axle Act for 12v Ignition Sense on the SP 9100

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I braided the 12v Ignition sense, Trigger 1 12v sense, and Trigger2/lights 12v sense together, routed them through the tray hole and to the fuse block. Additionally I tapped into the Ignition 12v sense wire for the Lights/Trigger2 12v sense so I'd have control over the button interface LED lighting 100% of the time. Also considering using Trigger2 for inverter auto-power on, but we'll see.

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Here it is all covered up; hood closes (barely. You can see a slight mar on the top of the SP9100 where the hood contacted it. Slightly bending down the Power Tray gained me 1/8" clearance. If it's a problem, I can bend it more down; there's really nothing under there.
 
#37 ·
haha my buddy gave me a lot of crap for it as well. I have several of them and I'm not even 50% certain that setup will remain for long, so I went with convenient and easy for now. I justified it to myself that since it's not transferring any energy, not "vital" and only detecting if voltage is there, I could live with it for a bit. If it causes even a slight issue I'll splice into a marine adhesive butt connector.
 
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#38 ·
This weekend I was able to set aside an entire day to rip apart the entire back of my Colorado (seats, trim, carpet, headliner, everything) to route 4x 10AWG power cables and 4x RF cables through to the backseat and install a SAMLEX 600W Pure Sine Wave inverter powered through my Switch Pros SP9100.

I started by vacuuming out the back seat and wiping down the seats/doors with mild detergent water.
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Removed the back seats
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Removed the back plastic trim
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Removed insulation/sound deadening/cab vent

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Plastic divider gone

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And re-vacuum

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Popped the headliner down and started rolling second skin on in full panels on the roof (I applied 6 panels total. 4 up in this pic)

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Some minor cutting for the floor. 5 panels here. Note: Second Skin recommends 60% coverage. 25% min, 100% max (obviously... ?).

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I basically covered what looked like 60%, then tapped around with my fingernail to find "loose" high pitched panels and covered those as well. 3 panels here.

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#39 ·
I routed my power and RF cables through the trim while I had it pulled up

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And through one of the holes in the backseat carpet for mounting the metal backseat support.

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Reinstalled the backseat bracket and trim, followed by backseats

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I removed the battery (kind of a pain with the PowerTray) and then drilled through the clutch knockout to pass them into the engine bay. This is pre-deburring and without the rubber collar.

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I wrapped the RF cables in copper foil to maybe prevent some of the interference from the engine. Who knows. I also wrapped them in mesh abrasion sleeve and adhesive lined heatshrunk the ends. There's also 4x 10AWG cables and high temp silicon filling in the small spaces between now.

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