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And viola, now I have 120v power beneath the seat
Verified:
And looks like I'm losing about .02v on the doubled up 10AWG lines (battery read at 14.6v)
It's all switched by the SP9100, which I know only supplies 35A on this switch (35Ax 14.6v = 510W, or 35A x 12v = 420W). I can swap it to a 50A fuse on the blue sea systems fuse block and then switch it remotely from the SP9100 if it becomes an issue, but 420W at 120v is still 3.5A, which is more than a standard 150W Ram or F150 outlet put out.
Next up is mounting 2 of these, one on the rear seat plastic trim and one in the passenger footwell. I wanted one with a square cover, but couldn't find an RU rated one like that without it being 150W limited and OEM with multiple harnesses.
Made quite a mess
And all cleaned up. Ahhhh. Satisfying.
Verified:
And looks like I'm losing about .02v on the doubled up 10AWG lines (battery read at 14.6v)
It's all switched by the SP9100, which I know only supplies 35A on this switch (35Ax 14.6v = 510W, or 35A x 12v = 420W). I can swap it to a 50A fuse on the blue sea systems fuse block and then switch it remotely from the SP9100 if it becomes an issue, but 420W at 120v is still 3.5A, which is more than a standard 150W Ram or F150 outlet put out.
Next up is mounting 2 of these, one on the rear seat plastic trim and one in the passenger footwell. I wanted one with a square cover, but couldn't find an RU rated one like that without it being 150W limited and OEM with multiple harnesses.
Made quite a mess
And all cleaned up. Ahhhh. Satisfying.