Today we installed most of the long travel suspension on my Canyon, only thing left to install is the mounts for the front bypass shocks and the larger wheels. Regarding the wheels, it appears the mounting flanges on the new rims are thicker than the OEM rim, so the nuts only grab by about a turn or so. We put the stock wheels on for now with larger spacers for the required clearance. But has anyone tried to remove the old studs and install longer ones? I dont want to run spacers with the new wheels, they would be sticking out like crazy then haha.
Anyone ever swap out to longer wheel studs yet?
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Found the OEM size is M14-1.5. If it was threaded right to the end then it may have been long enough. I am going to take a rim off tomorrow and verify the length difference that I require then try to source out some longer studs. After that, its figuring out how much fun it will be to replace them.
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You could also try some ET Style lugs. They grab more thread
SPLINE CLOSED END ET LUGS 1.69? | West Coast Wheel Accessories
SPLINE CLOSED END ET LUGS 1.69? | West Coast Wheel Accessories
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For posterity's sake, and the sanity of others, exactly what wheels did you get that have such a thick mounting base?
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NAPA should have a Doorman catalog with 100's of different studs avaliable. May even be online.
Grid GD07 17x9" rims with a backspacing of 4.75" to clear the suspension. The hubs are machined down to what ever backspacing is required when ordered. The wholes for the lug nuts could have been machined a bit deeper to make it work still, not sure why that wasn't done.
Did some searching last night, Dorman and any other manufacture didn't have the same specs as what I required. Either correct length and wrong thread pitch or correct thread pitch but wrong spline diameter.
FYI, the 2010-2017 camaro has the same stud measurements as our trucks. ARP makes wheel studs that are 1/2" longer than stock for camaro people that drag race and have odd combinations for wheels. I have ordered enough to swap my truck over to the ARP studs.
Now to wait for the wheel studs to show up and to finish building the fenders...
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Excuse the messy garage, it's an old pic.
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Did some searching last night, Dorman and any other manufacture didn't have the same specs as what I required. Either correct length and wrong thread pitch or correct thread pitch but wrong spline diameter.
FYI, the 2010-2017 camaro has the same stud measurements as our trucks. ARP makes wheel studs that are 1/2" longer than stock for camaro people that drag race and have odd combinations for wheels. I have ordered enough to swap my truck over to the ARP studs.
Now to wait for the wheel studs to show up and to finish building the fenders...
Excuse the messy garage, it's an old pic.
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
So did they end up working?Grid GD07 17x9" rims with a backspacing of 4.75" to clear the suspension. The hubs are machined down to what ever backspacing is required when ordered. The wholes for the lug nuts could have been machined a bit deeper to make it work still, not sure why that wasn't done.
Did some searching last night, Dorman and any other manufacture didn't have the same specs as what I required. Either correct length and wrong thread pitch or correct thread pitch but wrong spline diameter.
FYI, the 2010-2017 camaro has the same stud measurements as our trucks. ARP makes wheel studs that are 1/2" longer than stock for camaro people that drag race and have odd combinations for wheels. I have ordered enough to swap my truck over to the ARP studs.
Now to wait for the wheel studs to show up and to finish building the fenders...![]()
Excuse the messy garage, it's an old pic.
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
I just seen your thread and replied to it lol. Currently waiting on the rest of the studs to show up. I have 10 so far.
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Awesome man, will you be replacing the studs yourself or will you have it done at a shop? If you do it yourself would you be able to do a step-by-step guide?
If I do it myself then I will take pictures and try to help out. I probably will do it myself, but will be a couple of weeks before I start.
Started changing out the rear wheel studs this evening after work. Once the rotor is off make sure you position the axle in a position so that when you hit the OEM stud with a hammer that it doesn't go in and damage the ABS sensor. A couple hits and it should be free. It can be removed and the 1/2" longer one installed without having to remove the axle.
The lug nuts that my rims came with bottomed out on the new studs before the rim was secured, so I trimmed down the rounded tip on the stud and it fit good then.
I used washers then tightened the new stud in place with a regular nut to pull the stud tight. The first stud I did I used one of the nuts from the bora wheel spacers I had and it was reshaping the nut, it must be a soft material/grade. So that is why I used the regular nut. Putting a bit of lube on the threads helps too, not so much torque is needed to pull the stud in place and it keeps the nut a bit cooler.
I will be completing the rest tomorrow.
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The lug nuts that my rims came with bottomed out on the new studs before the rim was secured, so I trimmed down the rounded tip on the stud and it fit good then.
I used washers then tightened the new stud in place with a regular nut to pull the stud tight. The first stud I did I used one of the nuts from the bora wheel spacers I had and it was reshaping the nut, it must be a soft material/grade. So that is why I used the regular nut. Putting a bit of lube on the threads helps too, not so much torque is needed to pull the stud in place and it keeps the nut a bit cooler.
I will be completing the rest tomorrow.
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The front went well. The studs were able to be changed out without removing the hub from the spindle. To install the new longer studs one small area of the dust shield will have to be flattened out a tad. Only needs to be bent to about 45 degrees.
Same installation, lube threads on stud, install spacer washers, crank stud in place until the head on the rear of the stud bottoms out and nut stops turning.
Before installing the new rims I used a wheel spacer on each corner and used the impact to crank the nuts on again. Wanted to make sure all studs were as straight as possible and inserted all the way.
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Same installation, lube threads on stud, install spacer washers, crank stud in place until the head on the rear of the stud bottoms out and nut stops turning.
Before installing the new rims I used a wheel spacer on each corner and used the impact to crank the nuts on again. Wanted to make sure all studs were as straight as possible and inserted all the way.
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Thank you for posting thisStarted changing out the rear wheel studs this evening after work. Once the rotor is off make sure you position the axle in a position so that when you hit the OEM stud with a hammer that it doesn't go in and damage the ABS sensor. A couple hits and it should be free. It can be removed and the 1/2" longer one installed without having to remove the axle.
The lug nuts that my rims came with bottomed out on the new studs before the rim was secured, so I trimmed down the rounded tip on the stud and it fit good then.
I used washers then tightened the new stud in place with a regular nut to pull the stud tight. The first stud I did I used one of the nuts from the bora wheel spacers I had and it was reshaping the nut, it must be a soft material/grade. So that is why I used the regular nut. Putting a bit of lube on the threads helps too, not so much torque is needed to pull the stud in place and it keeps the nut a bit cooler.
I will be completing the rest tomorrow.![]()
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Betcha that's the guts of the parking brake.
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Ah! Confusion solved! Thanks.
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Don't quote me on that just yet. I haven't taken the wheels off myself yet, but it does look like a lot of stuff I've recently worked on.
It is definitely a second gen that I own and yes, the brakes in the pics are shoes for the parking brake. The piece that goes over the shoes has the liner inside for the shoes on the parking brake and the rotor on the outside for the hydraulic brake portion.
Also found that the Dorman part number 610-490 is possibly a cheaper stud to get. It is the proper M14x1.5, it has about 5/8" of extra thread. I didn't purchase any or do much searching on them though, the stud diameter where the splines are I have not confirmed. It is from a F-350.
I though that the wheels would have had the lug nut holes bored out to the proper depth too but they didn't. The rims are made but with no holes drilled in them until they are ordered. Then the lug nut holes get bored and the back side gets machined down create the offset of what ever the customer ordered.
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