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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Canyon came 2nd hand with a Weathertech setup of the bug deflector and window 'rain guards'.

I've been meaning to remove the bug deflector for a while, and am finally looking at it seriously. I'm concerned there may be some paint damage where the two clips are mounted on the ends, but will deal with that when they're exposed.

Of more immediate issue is the full length of adhesive strip used to mount the deflector. Any tricks to removing this cleanly without damaging the underlying paint?
 

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Lay down a bead of Goo Gone on top of the strip, let it sit for a few hours, then grab one end of the deflector and gently lift until the end of the adhesive strip breaks loose. Then just gently work the deflector up and away from one end to the other until it's off. More Goo-Gone and a soft plastic scraper to get off the remnants. The act of removing the hardened adhesive may leave you with some fine scratches, so be ready to go over it with polish, then wax.

I removed a damaged 3rd brake light from my '85 Laser that had been on there since new. The adhesive foam tape was like concrete. Goo Gone and a plastic putty knife saved the day.
 

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^^ agree on Goo-Gone. Plus hair dryer or heat gun, to soften up the adhesive, get thin fishing line and run it under the adhesive to remove the deflector. Then your finger tips can just roll off remaining adhesive.
 

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Heat
prepsol
acetone

In that order. Acetone if prepsol doesn't remove it. Start by heating the strip, it should soften enough to get most of it off. And yes, fishing line is good, or a plastic putty knife.
Good luck! :)
 

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Heat
prepsol
acetone

In that order. Acetone if prepsol doesn't remove it. Start by heating the strip, it should soften enough to get most of it off. And yes, fishing line is good, or a plastic putty knife.
Good luck! :)
I'm not to sure about acetone its pretty harsh and could see it damage the clearcoat if you were to rub it any. Another thing that works same as Goo-Gone is WD 40 and neither one of those to can damage clearcoat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got myself some goo-gone and a plastic scraper. Will have at it later today and start with a hair-dryer.
 
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Got myself some goo-gone and a plastic scraper. Will have at it later today and start with a hair-dryer.
FYI when you get a new credit card keep the old one they work well for removing that sticky glue without damage to clearcoat after spraying with Goo-Gone or WD 40.
 

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As long as you do not use open flame or smoke lighter fluid for lighters will release it in seconds. It will not hurt the paint either as it is a light oil. No heat needed. It is just one step beyond WD40.

it is flammable so do use care and good judgment. Use it in small amounts. .
 

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Take your time- careful with that plastic scraper too. Make sure to get something back on the paint as you will likely remove whatever wax was there.
 

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I'm not to sure about acetone its pretty harsh and could see it damage the clearcoat if you were to rub it any. Another thing that works same as Goo-Gone is WD 40 and neither one of those to can damage clearcoat.
Acrylic enamel or urethane is impervious to acetone. Yes, if you leave it on there it could etch it.
WD40 is mostly kerosene - only effective on really soft adhesive.
Not sure what googone is, but prepsol works the best of any of them and surely won't attack paint. Also great for paint prep, and road tar removal.
My favorite:

 

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One more vote for Goo Gone (citrus based) as it is not really very flammable like some suggestions. Plus. . it will not harm paint or things near that deflector. Just squeeze a little along the adhesive strip line as suggested earlier. Wait 10 minutes or so. .. maybe squeeze on a bit more and start to gently lift it on one end.

You can also try and use a 4 to 6lb test mono fishing line to get it started. Providing you can slide it under one end. Go slow and easy and use a back and forth sawing motion on the fishing line.

Also, you can use it to remove any residue.

 

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Run a piece of nylon fishing string under it working back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It came off pretty easily and goo-gone cleaned things up for the most part, but there's work to do. Once I clean it up some more I might have it cleaned up at a body shop. Need to get some touch-up paint while I'm at it.

Boggles the mind that people stick stuff to a new car with double sided tape.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good to hear. If you have a car buffer/polisher you could probably polish it up. I have s cheap one from ebay, like under $50. Comes in handy. Even when you do touch up paint, you can buff and polish the area.
Yeah, it's something I've never bothered buying, but I should. I have three cars and more than a handful of motorcycles that I could use one on. Maybe I'll grab one here in SC before I head north.

406784
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
BTW - the hood is covered in pollen - it's nutty down here. Have to rinse off the truck every couple of days if it doesn't rain. Thankfully we're heading into 3 days of wet weather that should take care of it before it damages the clear coat.
 

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As long as you do not use open flame or smoke lighter fluid for lighters will release it in seconds. It will not hurt the paint either as it is a light oil. No heat needed. It is just one step beyond WD40.

it is flammable so do use care and good judgment. Use it in small amounts. .
agreed on the lighter fluid, it’s a perfect light aliphatic that works better than goo gone or WD-40
 
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