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Discussion Starter #121
Less cold, so much as vibration, water/silt intrusion, freeze/thaw cycling, and gravel impact. The roads here are not treated with chlorides, they are sanded (infrequently, because that never lasts) or graveled (everywhere, since wind doesn't blow the gravel around) so even a paved road has a ton of gravel kickup. My front shackle D-ring looks like a shotgun wound victim.


Importantly, because I hate one-sided stories, DD has responded to an email with a request for purchase info and pictures. So far, so good.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Well, been doing small things here and there. Added cleats to the Diamondback. More tiedowns, or handholds for ice in winter, more often.



One last shot of the nameplate. An homage to my original ZR2.com sig, an S10 clean/dirty sideshot.



Debadging projects: removing the Colorado nameplate and replacing the brushed diesel badges with black and red.

Naked!



No one ever shows the debadge of the tailgate bowtie, probably because it is such a pain in the ass.

Bowtie back



Tape residue



Final shot, black and red, clean doors.

 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
Swapped the replacement @Diode Dynamics bars today.


Looked like the lettering burned through the coating. The anodizing on the bezel holds up excellently, but the endcap coating isn't an anodized or the heavier powdercoat of Rigid, and corrosion is starting on all endcaps. The black finish on the screws is definitely not long for this world either, so be prepared. While I'm a little less thrilled with their finishes, their customer service is tops. Sent out quick with an RMA and a shipping label to figure out if there is a bigger issue.

Can't find any fault with their service, except maybe grumbling for discontinuing the XML2 5202 fogs in natural white, those are still one of the best products they have ever produced.

379564


Better shot of the screw comparison. The above were bought in 9/2018. To be fair though, I live in one of the harshest places on earth still populated.

379565


New scatter "flood" lens compared to the "wide" throw lens in the old 18" bar. The endcaps are holding up better, but corroding slightly from the screw mount hole, where there is no coating between the aluminum and a stainless bolt.

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Closeup of the wide lens.

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Compared to the flood lens.

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Light em if you got em. 15,300 no-sh8t lumens. With the Squadrons going, that's 21,600 no-sh8t lumens on call to augment the XML2s and the 4500K HID lows.

379569


Debadged and rebadged with black. No mo chrome. (Even though the fender badges were brushed.) The OEM badges are actually noticeably thinner than the ebay specials.

379570
 

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So my opinion of @Diode Dynamics quality is diminished, slightly. I have a less than one year old Stage Series 18 that is not fully lighting up. And the finish on the SS6s on either side is flaking after less than a year as well, not much longer than the Chinese lightbars they replaced. Granted I live in one of the harshest places on the planet, but still. I'll be PMing DD to see what steps to take next.

First picture is the SS18, for comparison, the second is the SS6.

Third and fourth pictures are finish.
Hey there,

First, I sincerely apologize for the issues you experienced with our Stage Series bars. I know what a headache that can be.

I'm glad to see our service team got them replaced already, thank you for your patience. Please keep us posted if we can assist with anything in the future.

Don't hesitate to shoot me a PM if I can answer any questions!

Jake H.
Diode Dynamics
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Move up inside and let the brown go blue.. err.. black.

Brown Acadia wheel, about to be black.



First run drying from Feibings Pro Dye Black:



Up close color:



So looks like the Feibings Pro dye works on plastic, too. I couldn't find that anywhere on the web. Made things easier just applying dye to the whole wheel, and buffing with a dry cloth. No dye transfer from the plastic with a wet wipe, so far so good.

 

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Discussion Starter #128
Tonight's project, part the first:



Some of you guys want body colored flares, well, on the Cyber Grey, the flares are already too close to matching colors, so I wanted a darker contrast, black it is.



Still haven't used three quarters of the bottle. One weakness this stuff has on plastic is alcohol. Re-solubilizes the dye, since it is suspended in ethyl alcohol. You can wipe some of it right off if that comes in contact, but you can water it, rub your hand on it, and no dye will transfer when dry. Neat stuff.

For some reason, dudes in late model F150s are damn near breaking their necks to check out AK Grey of late.

 

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Discussion Starter #129
Well, well, well.

Time to add some heat!

A small Allen wrench around 3mm works, they only need to depress the spring about 1/4" inward to the center.



Pulled airbag:



Interior view of 2 post 2017 Colorado wheel 84044758



Pulled wheel, and popped top cover shroud off, and removed 3 7mm screws from lower shroud to loosen. You can see the notch for where the heated clock spring has a slight extension.



A tale of two clocksprings. On the left you can see the heated wires are missing from the clockspring, and the shroud extension at the 7:00 position for the heat wires is absent.



This is the plug that goes to the X203 connector, that is preinstalled on certain 2017 Z71s, and maybe LTs. If you want to check, pull an endoscope and look in the access hole in the lower shroud for the connector next to the steering wheel cylinder:



A view of it from the top:



And with the connector from the clockspring:



Reassembled and buttoned up before wheel install:



New wheel installed!



Test heat!



GMC wheel with Colorado airbag and cover, no adapter needed:



But, you will need to swap bezels on your HMI, the "Gloss Axiom" trim of the GMC doesn't match whatever charcoalish tint they call the Colorado trim:



Short, but nerve-wracking install. Disconnect the ground on the battery, then pump the brakes for 30sec to discharge the capacitor for the airbags, then wait 15-30 minutes. Remove airbags, install wheel, reattach ground to test wheel, disconnect ground and wait 15-30 min, then install airbag and reattach ground for good. I am working on installing the Carperformance Android HMI warranty replacement as well, hence the dash teardown.

Also, as far as I can tell, the heat is primarily in the 10/2 positions. Will have to test further.


Final parts list:

2017 Acadia Denali heated wheel Cocoa Dune 84047233
2016/7+ Canyon Denali harness 84394027
Many models GM clockspring (coil) 23407638
Feibings Pro Dye
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Well, finally installed the seat covers I've had for about a year plus now. Just in time to find some cracking in the factory seat I should have warrantied.

20190909_163733.jpg


20190909_163724.jpg


20190909_163659.jpg


Now I just have to get the matching set for the rear to add the heated seats to, rather than open up the factory covers.
 

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But, you will need to swap bezels on your HMI, the "Gloss Axiom" trim of the GMC doesn't match whatever charcoalish tint they call the Colorado trim:
Is this just so the Steering wheel trim matches the dash trim..?
And if you don't mind me asking, what'd this swap cost in total?
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Is this just so the Steering wheel trim matches the dash trim..?
And if you don't mind me asking, what'd this swap cost in total?
Yes, if you don't mind the mismatch you don't really need it. It's pretty glaring to me, though, as the Gloss Axiom is a noticeably heavier metal deposition on all those parts that you can scuff with a scotchbrite to fix the brushed finish.

I have less than the cost of just a new Acadia wheel in it, so I don't know if my cost comparison will be helpful. I picked it up on ebay used for a song, like, ridiculously low. My cost with everything was $233. Expect around $220 more than that for average cost of the wheel and bezel new.
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Wow, very impressed with the detail of your build!! Nice job.
Thanks. Appreciate it.

The neoprene seats made me want a neoprene center console lid cover. Also, considering picking up a Tusk 36W handlebar warmer kit to add heat to the console lid for winter, so all body contact points in the truck would be heated... Just have to think about how to trigger it.




We stole the rope from the Army, the eagle from the Air Force, and the anchor from the Navy. And on the seventh day, when God rested, we overran His perimeter and stole the Globe, we've been running the show ever since.

United States Marines.
 

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Thanks. Appreciate it.

The neoprene seats made me want a neoprene center console lid cover. Also, considering picking up a Tusk 36W handlebar warmer kit to add heat to the console lid for winter, so all body contact points in the truck would be heated... Just have to think about how to trigger it.
Relay off the seat heater wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Turned my decent deal white combo spot/flood S2s into flush mount amber combo spot/flood S2s. Flush mount bezels are available by calling BD directly, for some reason they don't list them on the website.

 

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Discussion Starter #138
Add bezels, then remove bezels... save for another project later.



Current iteration of the Evil Mfg 3BL doesn't require bezels.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Well, the other project in the garage has not lent itself to anything major, but half of one project came about when one part shipped before the others.

Banks iDash 1.8



That bottom right block is Ambient Air Temp, so I'm glad the heated wheel is in.



Ended up using the base to an old phone clamp mount I had that ran Torque in the TJ. Temporary until the Block8head vent pod shows up, which better be soon.



Still working on the custom pages. I have one and two, but there are some critical PIDs not present, like trans temp, so it's taking me a while.
 

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It looks great! Does it have a PID for showing which gear you are currently in?
 
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