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Thanks for the write-up Bill. One thing that may not be obvious to some is that you will need to reinstall the waffle pattern plastic pieces after you remove the dam with the 6 torx bolts and 1 7mm bolt for each side. Additionally, there's a couple of torx bolts on each side near where the tow hooks are; you will also need to temporarily remove those 4 (two on each side) bolts so you can pull the dam down far enough to get your ratchet in around the tow hook area. Reinstall those 4 after dam is removed.

Colorado - Air Dam Removal

Tools Needed:
1/4 inch ratchet
1/4 inch socket
7 mm socket
T15 x 1 inch torx insert bit

Procedure:
1. Remove semi-triangular shaped waffle pattern plastic just before each front wheel and attached to fender skirt. Remove the 6 torx and 1 7mm bolt, twist slightly and pull out each.
2. Remove all remaining torx bolts holding on the air dam. Sometimes it helps to slightly bend the plastic to get the torx bit correctly engaged.

Pretty simple, just a lot of small torx bolts. I find it helps to put a little tape on the torx bit to make it stay in the 1/4 inch socket. The tools were all from a common craftsman set but any should work. You may need to lift the front slightly although I did not have to with 1" level installed. There is a lot of incorrect information on air dam removal out there - beware and drive it like you stole it.
 

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I did this project to my new canyon tonight and I've read that the air dam has 13 screws, but mine only had 11. There were 2 blanks on it which would be the 4th hole in on each side. Also, around the same area there was a screw on each side facing down that holds the bumper on. When I removed the air dam I had to take those 2 screws out and flip the clip from the bumper up to the black plastic underneath the bumper and reinstall the screw up through so I didn't have a screw sticking out on each side. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere unless I missed it. Oh and it took me about 1.5 hours in my cramped garage with hardly any room and I left the truck on the ground. It was still a pain in the ass and I'm glad it's done.
 

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Took me longer to gather up the tools to do it than doing it, i masked a line from side to side then cut it with a cut off wheel on my grinder. I left maybe 2 inches on the ends and under a inch in the middle section can't remember but I had no intentions of needing to save it.
 

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Took me longer to gather up the tools to do it than doing it, i masked a line from side to side then cut it with a cut off wheel on my grinder. I left maybe 2 inches on the ends and under a inch in the middle section can't remember but I had no intentions of needing to save it.
That actually looks really good like that. It looks like there's just a small piece on each side to make the whole bumper look even. Is the bottom edge super sharp now?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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Not sharp at all, the cutoff wheel will slightly melt the plastic and leave a little stuble that I just used a rasp to go over the edge to smooth it out.
 

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Has anyone been successful at selling the removed air dam to a junk yard?.... if so how much did you get!
 

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[B said:
Premo;3880105]Not sharp at all, the cutoff wheel will slightly melt the plastic and leave a little stuble that I just used a rasp to go over the edge to smooth it out.[[/B]/QUOTE]

Premo -- thanks! That looks really fantastic. If you don't mind, what cutting wheel did you use in your grinder? I have an old DeWalt hand-held that I think uses 4" discs. Never cut with it though, so I'm not sure what type of disc is best for the air dam? Many Thanks! (PS - I'm guessing some decent masking tape would be good enough to ensure the cutting line is accurate and symmetric?)
 

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doesn't sound easy at all. There isn't much room in there and seeing as how there are torx screws along the entire length of the dam, this seems like a pain when the entire front facia comes off just as easy.
 

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Did Mine Today

First off prior to starting the air dam removal, I recommend that you read all the previous posts and also Google "Colorado Air Dam Removal" and watch the You Tube videos. Each one shows a little something different, but if you put together all the tips it will make the removal much easier. The tip about using a small ratchet is a good one, and holding the torx bit on by wrapping it with electrical tape is a must, or you will lose it when it sticks in one of the screws that you are removing that are upside down. The last tip I can offer is having a 2nd person helping you that can pull the bumper out and hold it making access to the screws much easier. In my case it was my wife who I had convinced that the truck would look better without it.
 

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.... In my case it was my wife who I had convinced that the truck would look better without it.
Okay, I've got to ask ..... Upon completion of the task, did the wife agree that the vehicle looked better with the air dam removed?

:-?
 

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Yes... the wife agreed the truck looked better without the air dam. It took away that SUV look and made it look like a truck again.
 

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Anybody getting any kind of wind vibration noise under the right front passenger or right front wheel well area after removing the DAM? I starts at or above 55 MPH and is variable in sound and frequency. I removed mine and then the noise seems to have started. I have searched all over the underneath looking for the culprit. I am beginning to think its the fender liner on the right front. My next step is to go out and drive it while I'm along side in another vehicle and see if I can tell what it is from the outside.

I have posted this question in several threads, I can't possibly be the only one with this problem.
 

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Anybody getting any kind of wind vibration noise under the right front passenger or right front wheel well area after removing the DAM? I starts at or above 55 MPH and is variable in sound and frequency. I removed mine and then the noise seems to have started. I have searched all over the underneath looking for the culprit. I am beginning to think its the fender liner on the right front. My next step is to go out and drive it while I'm along side in another vehicle and see if I can tell what it is from the outside.

I have posted this question in several threads, I can't possibly be the only one with this problem.
I did notice the other day that one of the screws for the passenger front liner was not installed at the factory. Make sure you are not missing any of them.
 
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I removed mine the other day. Like others have said, a micro ratchet makes things much easier. I was able to get all of them out but the two by the two hooks using the micro ratchet. For those, I had to use a pair of vice grips on the threads to back it out as much as possible and then I slowly removed them the rest of the way from the top using a pair of pliers.

2017 Canyon All Terrain. GM made it unnecessarily difficult, but I'm glad that I did it. It took less than an hour, not including the trip to the store for the micro ratchet.
 

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No doubt the screws are located and oriented to take a few seconds off build, given the prescribed order of assembly. Removal isn't that difficult though. I think I spent more time running the truck on/off ramps, locating and putting tools away. I flipped clips such that screws heads are on the outside while I was in there.

It would probably reinstall easier now with the clips flipped but that really doesn't matter as I won't be reinstalling the cow-catcher.
 

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What BillAz71 said!

It's not that tough people!
After reading this post, I did mine today with only the tools in the first pic. Took about an hour.
I am "horizontally challenged" and old so I did use my high dollar fancy ramps, see second pic.
Biggest trick is to remove the waffle thing. Just seven more screws saves a bunch of headache......
And contrary to what some people say- that you can't reverse the clips- you sure can!
I only had two, one on each side, that would actually run into the waffle thing, so I took a drill bit that was just a little smaller than the holes in the plastic (about 1/4") and drilled thru the waffle thing before I installed that clip.

EDIT: I added two pics (4 & 5) of the waffle thing. You can see the one hole I drilled.

CAUTION: There are two screws pointing down that don't have anything to do with the air dam.
MAKE SURE YOU REVERSE THESE TOO OR THEY WILL STICK OUT ABOUT AN INCH POINTING DOWN AND YOU'RE LIABLE TO SCRAPE THE CRAP OUTTA YOURSELF SOMETIME!

ALL clips reversed AND screws installed from bottom up in case I ever wanna reinstall.
My suggestion for anyone who wants to reinstall or to be able to put on and take off, take one screw in to a hardware store and replace them all with phillips heads. T-15's are fine but just about everyone has a phillips screwdriver in their toolbox, and if you don't, well you shouldn't be messin' with man stuff!

And by the way, it looks like the dam was made by Husky, check out the label in the third pic......
 

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