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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anyone attempted to add heated mirrors (option DL9) to a Z71? It is one of only two options the LT had that I'll be looking to add to my Z.

The reason I ask is that, looking through the upfitter manual, I can't find a single thing preventing someone from replacing the mirror glass with the LT version, and plugging it in.

There are no extra switches for the heated mirrors. It shares wiring with the rear defogger (for power) and power mirrors (for power distribution). Both of which are standard on the Z

The power is transmitted by connectors x510 and x610, which is shared with the power mirrors.

Pin out of those connectors is as follows:

1: Motor Common Control
2: Mirror Motor Up (+) Down (-)
3: Mirror Motor Right (+) Left (-)
4: Mirror Heating Element Control
5: Ground

Has anyone looked at these connectors on a Z? If so, could you confirm if cavities 4 and 5 are populated?
 

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Has anyone attempted to add heated mirrors (option DL9) to a Z71? It is one of only two options the LT had that I'll be looking to add to my Z.

The reason I ask is that, looking through the upfitter manual, I can't find a single thing preventing someone from replacing the mirror glass with the LT version, and plugging it in.

There are no extra switches for the heated mirrors. It shares wiring with the rear defogger (for power) and power mirrors (for power distribution). Both of which are standard on the Z

The power is transmitted by connectors x510 and x610, which is shared with the power mirrors.

Pin out of those connectors is as follows:

1: Motor Common Control
2: Mirror Motor Up (+) Down (-)
3: Mirror Motor Right (+) Left (-)
4: Mirror Heating Element Control
5: Ground

Has anyone looked at these connectors on a Z? If so, could you confirm if cavities 4 and 5 are populated?
Cavity 5 will be populated because the remote mirrors need a ground. Only looking at cavity 4 needed to be "populated" to make the heated portion work, assuming all of the other "stuff" is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I'm understanding this correctly, I believe pin 1 may be multiplexed and is used as the second conductor for the electrical motor circuits. Pin 1 will be the opposite of pins 2 or 3.

When Pin 2 is high, pin 1 is pulled low causing the motor to move up. The inverse happens for down.
If that proves to not be the case I have no idea what Pin 1's purpose is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm hoping it'll be easy as well. Historically I've seen GM really likes to standardize harnesses as much as possible. With that in mind I anticipate they wouldn't produce two differing door harnesses for this one tiny option. It's just way too much hassle.

I'd go as far as saying I will be doing it when mine gets here. Worst case scenario I have to run an extra power wire from the power distribution point into the mirror area.
 

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It "should" have the same harness throughout the trim levels. I say ""should" because in past experience working on a mirror swap for a '12 silverado it was wired for heat turn signals and power fold in the mirror harness. I ran I. to a problem with the door switch wireing being completely different. I have my fingers crossed that everything is there for heat and it's a simple plug and play.
 

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This is relevant to my interests, as far as the connectors go, as I am interested in adding tow mirrors with Marker lights/turn signals. Is the mirrors "common control" pin (pin 1) just constant 12v power as long as ignition on? And then pin 2 and 3 possibly actuates a relay or switch to make the mirror move?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For DC motors it's very common to only use 2 control wires. Applying a specific polarity moves one direction, reverse the polarity and it does the opposite. By doing this you're reducing the number of I/O pins (and harness wires) required for control.

I wouldn't want to say definitively without having a truck in hand to test. My expectation is that the common control pin applies either a pos or neg signal which is the inverse of the other pin. (if you look at page 42 of the 2016 upfitter guide you'll see some evidence of this)
 

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For DC motors it's very common to only use 2 control wires. Applying a specific polarity moves one direction, reverse the polarity and it does the opposite. By doing this you're reducing the number of I/O pins (and harness wires) required for control.

I wouldn't want to say definitively without having a truck in hand to test. My expectation is that the common control pin applies either a pos or neg signal which is the inverse of the other pin. (if you look at page 42 of the 2016 upfitter guide you'll see some evidence of this)
If they are doing this for the motor controls, then the ground wire may not be populated without heated mirrors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Relevant pages attached. I'm as certain as I can be about the motor control without having a truck to test myself.

The only question that remains to me is whether or not 4 and 5 are populated in the harness.

EDIT: Looks like you got it. Judging by the file name and type you must be using a Mac as well :)
 

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I am also interested in this.
This is basically the only thing I would like to add.

Sent from my RCT6203W46 using Tapatalk
 

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Subscribed as well... why they could not have this as an option to the SLE All Terrain is beyond me...
 

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Relevant pages attached. I'm as certain as I can be about the motor control without having a truck to test myself.

The only question that remains to me is whether or not 4 and 5 are populated in the harness.

EDIT: Looks like you got it. Judging by the file name and type you must be using a Mac as well :)
If you have a brown/yellow in cavity 4 and a black wire in cavity 5 (ground), then it is ready for heated mirror glass. Test those wires with a voltmeter and see if they have 12v or more with the rear window defogger turned on. Fuse F 60 under the hood needs to be installed if it is not there. It should be a 7.5 amp.
 

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This is relevant to my interests, as far as the connectors go, as I am interested in adding tow mirrors with Marker lights/turn signals. Is the mirrors "common control" pin (pin 1) just constant 12v power as long as ignition on? And then pin 2 and 3 possibly actuates a relay or switch to make the mirror move?
You have to run wires anyway for your turn signal so just run everything you will need. You should not need a power wire, just tail, turn, and ground. That way you will have auto lighting control of your new mirror lights also.
 

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Just one question, might we have to reprogram the BCU for the heated mirrors??

SavageBob,, where are getting the tow mirrors from, sounds like I would like to have a set.

how much for the heated mirror elements/parts??
 

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Just one question, might we have to reprogram the BCU for the heated mirrors??
No, they can run parallel off of the rear window defogger relay. Just turn on the switch when you want them. That is the factory setup.
 
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