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You don't need to understand someone else's motivations, just that it works for them. Every mod ultimately comes down to accomplishing something, whether it be looks, convenience, comfort, performance, etc.

For what it's worth, I've probably taken a bone stock ZR2 through more **** than a bunch have on 35's. Now that I'm on 35's, I just know I have a good chance of one-shotting obstacles.
I guess i dont need to understand, but kinda the purpose of a forum...or so i thought....But glad you were able to help some much....
 

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there's a lot of physics and geometry involved with the engineering of a vehicle. it will generally work best in stock form for street to spirited offroading. however when you change the math then things need to be aligned again with gears, lifts, tires etc. the purpose of airing down is to give better traction and soften the impact of tire vs ground.


when you crawl you want to air down. by airing down you lose ground clearance. so if you go up in tire size you can still have better than stock clearance even when aired down. i think we own our trucks for different reasons.
Ok thanks for the info helps make sense
 

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2021 Chevy ZR2 ECLB, Blue-the best color
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You don't need to understand someone else's motivations, just that it works for them. Every mod ultimately comes down to accomplishing something, whether it be looks, convenience, comfort, performance, etc.

For what it's worth, I've probably taken a bone stock ZR2 through more **** than a bunch have on 35's. Now that I'm on 35's, I just know I have a good chance of one-shotting obstacles.
i used to get some crazy looks when i had a subaru brat mudding above santa cruz. what you say about the one shot is true. i don't beat my vehicles. 35's give a decided advantage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I guess i dont need to understand, but kinda the purpose of a forum...or so i thought....But glad you were able to help some much....
if you want to get brutalized in a forum go to the af1 aprilia forum and head to the politics section. i saw a guy last 2 posts and then disappear. not for the faint of heart.
 

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I guess i dont need to understand, but kinda the purpose of a forum...or so i thought....But glad you were able to help some much....
Did the whole "improve looks, convenience, comfort, performance, etc" not do it for you? Was just pointing out that the decision to do any mod boils down to whether it covered one or more of those aspect and solved a "problem"...

If you need more explaining it will be more of the same. Going to 35's over 33's is for those folks that feel they need just that extra bit of clearance and/or grip, or maybe just to look good. What works for you, works for you. What works for me, works for me.
 

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Going larger is definitely a proposition of diminishing returns on investment of time, costs, milage, possible breakage, etc.
Keeping in mind from manufacturer to manufacturer and even tire model, tire dimensions are nominal; reference the below photos:
From L to R:
285/70R17 Duratrac - 285/75R17 Cooper AT/3 - 35x12.50 BFG MT KM2 - all of these tires are newish - less than 2500km on each set.
IMG_8714 by M J, on Flickr

The KM2s (off my FJ Cruiser) are nearly right on a 35" diameter (actual is 34 3/4")
IMG_8718 by M J, on Flickr

The Coopers (currently on my Bison) at 285/75R17s, being a nominal 34" tire, give up less than an inch to the BFGs, and measure out to an actual 34")
IMG_8716 by M J, on Flickr

The 285/70R17 Duratracs which I had on prior to the Coopers were put on and saw very little rubbing on the street with no trimming. For any amount of suspension work however, trimming needed to happen. These were put on and pulled off prior to AEV putting out their trim kit. Had I known at the time they were going to come out with that trim kit, I probably would have kept them on and run them into the pavement. They measure a true 32 3/4"
IMG_8717 by M J, on Flickr

If we say that the stock, OEM tires at 265/65R17 are a true 30.5" diameter and those tires provide for a 9" ground clearance, the ground clearances wearing the three options above come out to:
285/70R17 Duratrac - 10.1" (an 11% increase)
285/75R17 Cooper - 10.75" (a 16% increase)
35x12.50 BFG M/T - 11.125" (a 19% increase)
 

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2021 Chevy ZR2 ECLB, Blue-the best color
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
^^^ great info. i'm at a crossroads as to what i want to do first.
i feel like a coil over from peak would be a good idea. do i add an uca? that almost doubles the price. i think i'd do an aal at the same time. pretty good bang for the buck. back to the uca, do i wait and see how things go or is the geometry going to be way out of whack? should i just replace the ball joint with a delta joint from icon?
\
if i do the coil over then i'm thinking i will run a set of 255/80r17 falken wildpeak at3. 33.1x10 essentially. i have read that they won't rub being a 10" wide tire.
next i would try a 35/10.50r17 kenda klever with the aev 33" trim kit. hopefully that will be enough. as i've said my goal is to NOT beat the truck. slow and steady and all that. of yeah a 4.10 gear swap.

i was going to do a front bumper but the 2021 has not so many options yet. the relentless rear bumpers look really nice. i'm not sure about the tire carrier option. seems like a good way to offer an easy free tire in my neighborhood.
 

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This is stock, OEM suspension - no lift, no level - nothing other than the AEV Highmarks on the Coopers mentioned above on the OEM width wheels with no wheel spacers.

IMG_8359 by M J, on Flickr

At full stuff, I have decent clearances still. If I went with a 12.5 wide tire, I'd need to add spacers or use a wheel with less offset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
nice. unfortunately i am not able to use the highmark flairs. they are only made for the ccsb. i could do the front and not the rear which would be an odd looking thing.

nice looking truck btw. except for the red part. everyone knows blue is the best color. ;)
 

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well the highmarks fit on a EC truck... but... youd have that fuel door cut out which I dont know if you want that
 
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