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2021 Chevy ZR2 ECLB, Blue-the best color
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all,
imagine my surprise when i found out aev doesn't do the highmark flare for the long box truck. what have people done to get around the shortsightedness of aev? not that i consider them complete losers. i think there must be enough extended cab owners to make it worthwhile to make the flares.

help.
 

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Chop chop. But really, you dont need to get this crazy. Throw them on and trim where necessary. It will probably be just the bottom corners of the fenders and bedsides. I can stuff a 37 in here. You dont need that much clearance. The chop that I did brought 99 problems, but clearance aint one. No fender liners, extra tire poke, dirty all the time, outward dents in my fenders because of rocks, etc.

Coming from a business school background, I understand AEV's desire to not produce ex-cab. Its a large investment into a very small, niche market. That is not sustainable for a big business. And before you say, "it's not that much to make a set of flares", here is a brief look into how much molds cost. Keep in mind, these are tiny molds, for tiny parts. Prices go up exponentially for large parts. How Much Does Injection Molding Cost? | Rex Plastics Mold Manufacturer

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
i did speak with a fellow at aev who said it's been looked at and the decision was what @5678ta said. the market is too small. i could do a front ($750) and fake the rear with a bushwacker maybe. i could just do the 33" tim kit and settle for tiny cheerios. how do you like the kendas? any wheel spacers? what gears?
 

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I love the Kendas. They have taken everything I have thrown at them so far. I've run them with and without spacers. Also been stock gear and 4.56. Unless someone else comes out with a 35x10.50, i'll be getting another set. Havent found a need to go the normal 35x12.50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i like my tires like i like my women. tall and skinny. unless they aren't. women that is.
did you try the 35's on stock gearing? no rubbing without spacers?
 

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It sucks for us EC guys. no one makes the bed side flairs or aev cutout kits for 35's. great I can get one for the front woo.. but it would look super derpy if i cant for the rear.... for a business decision sure I can understand, but from my point of view... it freaking suuuuuucks. Yes I can make my own, like 5678ta, but I dont want to, ill mess it up. and at this point for my particular truck, I cant just sell it for a new CC model, after sinking so much into it this last year alone....(15k) not worth it. sure some of the fiberglass/carbon makers could make one as a one off for us, but at 10k by itself just for the rears, when the normal ones for all four corners is less than 2k?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah maybe just the 33" kit and the peak spring over stuff and an aal. do 33's for a while and wait and see. i could probably get away with stock gearing for a while. i wouldn't want to go 4.56 with 33's. 4.10 yes.
 

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one option:
Run a set of 285/70R17s and maybe source a set of the regular OEM Bison flares that someone has taken off their truck and spend your money on more important stuff than ~1/2 to 1" more ground clearance and the ever so slightly better break over/approach/departure angles that larger tires are going to provide.

a 285/70R17 is the perfect size for very little investment in mods on this truck. There are no free lunches, but this is about as close as you can get.

Even with the AEV Highmark flares, 35x12.50 can and do rub in some minor fashion at full articulation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
one option:
Run a set of 285/70R17s and maybe source a set of the regular OEM Bison flares that someone has taken off their truck and spend your money on more important stuff than ~1/2 to 1" more ground clearance and the ever so slightly better break over/approach/departure angles that larger tires are going to provide.

a 285/70R17 is the perfect size for very little investment in mods on this truck. There are no free lunches, but this is about as close as you can get.

Even with the AEV Highmark flares, 35x12.50 can and do rub in some minor fashion at full articulation.
that's how i'm leaning.
 

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i like my tires like i like my women. tall and skinny. unless they aren't. women that is.
did you try the 35's on stock gearing? no rubbing without spacers?
Yes, I ran stock gearing for about 5 months. It was fine. You just knew it was on 35's. She was no rocket ship, but drove just fine. Like I mentioned, with the massive chop that I did, I could run 37's without rubbing. And i've been with and without spacers. Currently running spacers for a shock relocation. But there's soo much room with the 10.50 wides (literally an extra inch on each side of the tire vs a 12.50), I could probably get away with no spacers. But the upcoming revision to a 12" travel 2.5" shock will require them.
 

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Chop chop. But really, you dont need to get this crazy. Throw them on and trim where necessary. It will probably be just the bottom corners of the fenders and bedsides. I can stuff a 37 in here. You dont need that much clearance. The chop that I did brought 99 problems, but clearance aint one. No fender liners, extra tire poke, dirty all the time, outward dents in my fenders because of rocks, etc.

Coming from a business school background, I understand AEV's desire to not produce ex-cab. Its a large investment into a very small, niche market. That is not sustainable for a big business. And before you say, "it's not that much to make a set of flares", here is a brief look into how much molds cost. Keep in mind, these are tiny molds, for tiny parts. Prices go up exponentially for large parts. How Much Does Injection Molding Cost? | Rex Plastics Mold Manufacturer

View attachment 407632
View attachment 407633
Nice work, I think it looks better than the bison flares. I'm on 33's and 4.10s, would like 35's. Could you keep the fender liners if you added a few push/pul pins? I'm starting my AEV 33" trim today, I'll see how that turns out. I was good with the 33's and stock wells, maybe the 33" trim well let me run a 34/35" tire. The I'll want 4.56's, never ending money pit.
 

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Nice work, I think it looks better than the bison flares. I'm on 33's and 4.10s, would like 35's. Could you keep the fender liners if you added a few push/pul pins? I'm starting my AEV 33" trim today, I'll see how that turns out. I was good with the 33's and stock wells, maybe the 33" trim well let me run a 34/35" tire. The I'll want 4.56's, never ending money pit.
The liner mounts to a lip on the edge of the sheet metal, so if you cut it, it's gone. There is nothing to reattach to. I hacked up part of the passenger liner and added a tab off the plastic fender brace, but it only covers the front half. This is the main reason I steer folks away from the big chop. I like how it turned out, but man she gets dirty even while you clean her. 😂 And with the wheel spacers, I'm out of the fender a solid 1.5". Heaven forbid you run a normal 35x12.50, you'd be 2.5" sticking out.

I know all about the money pit, trust me. My rabbit hole is a currently a mine shaft. "Stock with some tasteful mods should be fine until I pay her off".
 

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I never understood it....Im not a huge off road guy so dont bash me to hard.....Is there really any plus going from a 33 to a 35? I mean dont get me wrong ive had my moments were id love to be on 35s....but only for the reason of talk....I like the idea of saying its on 35s....when other mid size truck do it will little to no problem, I wanna be the same.....but when it comes to off roading....My 33s have done everything ive asked....
 

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might look at a 285/75/17 which is a true 33 inch tire, can do the front flair relocate (in the how to section)and be good to go..

guy in my hood has front fiberglass wide front fenders with nothing on the rear, does not look right
plus he has 0 offset wheels with wheel spacers
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I never understood it....Im not a huge off road guy so dont bash me to hard.....Is there really any plus going from a 33 to a 35? I mean dont get me wrong ive had my moments were id love to be on 35s....but only for the reason of talk....I like the idea of saying its on 35s....when other mid size truck do it will little to no problem, I wanna be the same.....but when it comes to off roading....My 33s have done everything ive asked....
it depends what your terrain is i guess. mine is some mud but more rock. so if you air down a 33 you get 31.5? maybe? 35 aired down should give 33ish? also the better tire to wheel ratio is 50%. airing down a 33" should really happen on a 16" wheel. 35-17 and so on. you have no option to air down your tire on the wheels you have unless you have beadlocks. even then it would be a questionable idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
might look at a 285/75/17 which is a true 33 inch tire, can do the front flair relocate (in the how to section)and be good to go..

guy in my hood has front fiberglass wide front fenders with nothing on the rear, does not look right
plus he has 0 offset wheels with wheel spacers
i probably will go 33 at least for a while. 255/80r17 though. i can stay on the stock wheels. also good for snow.
 

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it depends what your terrain is i guess. mine is some mud but more rock. so if you air down a 33 you get 31.5? maybe? 35 aired down should give 33ish? also the better tire to wheel ratio is 50%. airing down a 33" should really happen on a 16" wheel. 35-17 and so on. you have no option to air down your tire on the wheels you have unless you have beadlocks. even then it would be a questionable idea.
So your saying you want 35s so you can air down? I mean is that the reason to have 35s? im not trying to air down, nor go into any situation that would require it so my setup really doesnt matter...I only asking for everyone that off roads for real i guess...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So your saying you want 35s so you can air down? I mean is that the reason to have 35s? im not trying to air down, nor go into any situation that would require it so my setup really doesnt matter...I only asking for everyone that off roads for real i guess...
there's a lot of physics and geometry involved with the engineering of a vehicle. it will generally work best in stock form for street to spirited offroading. however when you change the math then things need to be aligned again with gears, lifts, tires etc. the purpose of airing down is to give better traction and soften the impact of tire vs ground.


when you crawl you want to air down. by airing down you lose ground clearance. so if you go up in tire size you can still have better than stock clearance even when aired down. i think we own our trucks for different reasons.
 

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I never understood it....Im not a huge off road guy so dont bash me to hard.....Is there really any plus going from a 33 to a 35? I mean dont get me wrong ive had my moments were id love to be on 35s....but only for the reason of talk....I like the idea of saying its on 35s....when other mid size truck do it will little to no problem, I wanna be the same.....but when it comes to off roading....My 33s have done everything ive asked....
You don't need to understand someone else's motivations, just that it works for them. Every mod ultimately comes down to accomplishing something, whether it be looks, convenience, comfort, performance, etc.

For what it's worth, I've probably taken a bone stock ZR2 through more **** than a bunch have on 35's. Now that I'm on 35's, I just know I have a good chance of one-shotting obstacles.
 
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