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I am pretty sure nothing actually "broke" but if a wrist pin did not get sufficient oil would not the bearing surfaces associated with that wrist pin not fail? These surfaces are splash lubricated rather than pressure lubricated like the other major bearings, right? Seems like that would leave them a little more vulnerable to lubrication issues.
The surfaces could definitely get messed up, but that's a lot different than breaking. If lubrication failed the wrist pin would not typically be the first thing to go. A big end rod bearing has a lot more movement than the wrist pin and would likely fail first.

Just talked to the dealer-they said that GM does not have them open the motor, SO I may never know what actually failed.
They did say that a new engine should arrive by Friday though-that will be two and a half weeks after the failure. Hopefully have it in a week or so later?
The interesting part of this is that the dealer would just write of an entire engine as dead without even looking inside!? In any event please let us know what the bill will be.
 

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The surfaces could definitely get messed up, but that's a lot different than breaking. If lubrication failed the wrist pin would not typically be the first thing to go. A big end rod bearing has a lot more movement than the wrist pin and would likely fail first.

Again, I don't think anything actually "broke". Based on how it was running it would appear there was excessive play in a bearing. When it was ticking the noise seemed to be coming from the head area-which would indicate a piston pin over a rod end. I doubt the rod bearing lost lubrication but I can definitely see a few ways that wrist pin lubrication cold be compromised.


The interesting part of this is that the dealer would just write of an entire engine as dead without even looking inside!? In any event please let us know what the bill will be.
It is GM that warranties the engine. The dealer just does what GM tells them to do. It was clear when I shut the truck down that there was a significant internal failure that was not going to be fixed without an engine rebuild. I don't believe that GM would have a dealer rebuild a failed engine-I certainly would not want them too. The more prudent way to handle the issue is to replace the engine with a new one. I suspect GM will take possession of the engine and do their own analysis.
I really want to know what failed and why-but I do not suspect I will get that option. It leaves me a little nervous as to how long this new engine will last.
The dealer said this is a warranty repair so it should cost me nothing. If it was not, I would deal with the engine myself. Because this failed on the road, 600 miles from home, there will likely be about $1000 in costs associated with travel and a few lost days of my personal time by the time I have my truck back. Not to mention not having the truck for a month+.
 

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If you had a main or rod bearing failure you would have gotten a low oil pressure light or warning at idle since the bearing clearance would have been too great keep oil flow down. Alot of possibilities with a tick at first. Valvetrain lifter failure and piston/ring. Also a failure in the hpfp will also tick at first.
 

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The surfaces could definitely get messed up, but that's a lot different than breaking. If lubrication failed the wrist pin would not typically be the first thing to go. A big end rod bearing has a lot more movement than the wrist pin and would likely fail first.



The interesting part of this is that the dealer would just write of an entire engine as dead without even looking inside!? In any event please let us know what the bill will be.
What dealer is it at. I worked at GM and know some reps that could get an answer to failure. GM doesn't usually send out engines unless they have info on what failed. Would be strange if dealer tells GM that there is a noise and they jump to sending a new one based on that alone.
No history of you posting until now , so not sure of the rest of trucks history, or if you bought new or used, your first post being a blown engine, so a little shy right now, After the 3 other trolls chiming in about a blown engine, and no other evidence or feedback after they were called out.
 

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What dealer is it at. I worked at GM and know some reps that could get an answer to failure. GM doesn't usually send out engines unless they have info on what failed. Would be strange if dealer tells GM that there is a noise and they jump to sending a new one based on that alone.
No history of you posting until now , so not sure of the rest of trucks history, or if you bought new or used, your first post being a blown engine, so a little shy right now, After the 3 other trolls chiming in about a blown engine, and no other evidence or feedback after they were called out.
True-I have not posted here before.
Bought the truck new. Live in the Puget Sound area. Truck is in Twin Falls, ID.
Truck is a crew cab, Z71 long bed. No mods.
 

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2016 Colorado CCLB Z71 diesel Rainforest Green
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No. Engine was still running and had no external signs of failure. It just had a very sever knock at that point. My engine failure seems different from other reports I have heard of baby Duramax engine failure. It seems in the other cases there was no prior indication of problems and engine literally blew up. Mine had a tick (like a bad lifter) prior to, which them suddenly transitioned to a sever knock w/o coming apart (at least not externally). I did not try re-starting the engine but I am under the impression that it would have.
Reason why I brought this up, when I lost my engine, bad injector holed my piston, pressurized the crankcase and I was losing oil from the seals on the motor. The dealer, in the process of diagnosis, ended up removing the cylinder head to finally verify the hole in the #1 piston.

It is curious that GM and/or the dealer isn't digging deeper into the engine to verify some kind of mechanical failure before just replacing the engine under warranty unless it is something really obvious.

I would straight up ask the dealer what the failure is. I can't believe that they wouldn't tell you.

See if you can find out. It would be helpful to document it here online.

edit...my engine failure was, as of right now, just over 2 yrs and about 25k miles ago. Original failed at 48k miles. This engine seems to be better than my original, in that it doesn't lose ANY oil between oil changes, where my original engine was down at least a quart to almost 2 quarts between oil changes.
 

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If you had a main or rod bearing failure you would have gotten a low oil pressure light or warning at idle since the bearing clearance would have been too great keep oil flow down. Alot of possibilities with a tick at first. Valvetrain lifter failure and piston/ring. Also a failure in the hpfp will also tick at first.
I was thinking about that scenario too. If the IP did go or it was related to a failing injector the hole in the piston scenario sure makes sense as another potential pathway to failure. That would bring up the question of fuel additives and the question as to whether they were or were not being used. Just amazing that the dealer would not let you know the scoop.
 

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Reason why I brought this up, when I lost my engine, bad injector holed my piston, pressurized the crankcase and I was losing oil from the seals on the motor. The dealer, in the process of diagnosis, ended up removing the cylinder head to finally verify the hole in the #1 piston.

It is curious that GM and/or the dealer isn't digging deeper into the engine to verify some kind of mechanical failure before just replacing the engine under warranty unless it is something really obvious.

I would straight up ask the dealer what the failure is. I can't believe that they wouldn't tell you.

See if you can find out. It would be helpful to document it here online.

edit...my engine failure was, as of right now, just over 2 yrs and about 25k miles ago. Original failed at 48k miles. This engine seems to be better than my original, in that it doesn't lose ANY oil between oil changes, where my original engine was down at least a quart to almost 2 quarts between oil changes.
I asked directly (twice) what had failed. The first time I got an "I don't know-there was an internal failure" and the 2nd time "GM did not have us open it up" obviously they did a little more troubleshooting than they have shared. However, having driven the vehicle, there was little question that the engine needed to be replaced.
I am very interested in knowing what failed. As an engineer, that is what I do-determine failure modes and work out a course of cation to correct and prevent future failures. I intend to keep this truck for many hundreds of thousands of miles. I am not interesting in seeing this new engine fail at anything thing less than 250K. With the first one having failed at 55K with no modifications and very good maintenance I am a little concerned. I really like this truck-I am hoping that I can count on it in the future.
When your injector went out, what kind of indications where associated with that? Any? Was the injector stuck open or just developed a bad pattern that created a hot spot?
My engine seemed to run very well. I did not lose much oil-less than a quart.
 

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I was thinking about that scenario too. If the IP did go or it was related to a failing injector the hole in the piston scenario sure makes sense as another potential pathway to failure. That would bring up the question of fuel additives and the question as to whether they were or were not being used. Just amazing that the dealer would not let you know the scoop.
No additives-as per the owners manual.
No indication of the IP going out. Engine ran just fine for quite a while once the ticking started w/ no CELS or any other indication of a problem. I had read about IPs going out and making a load ticking sound-when I checked the engine (several times actually) the ticking was most definitely coming from the top, front of the engine, not the IP.
I doubt there was a hole in my piston. I would have expected a some sort of CEL, excessive soot, excessive case pressure, etc. A bad injector could result in a ticking sound but I would have expected that to affect the performance of the engine.
Certainly it is possible, but with the indications I saw, a bad wrist pin associated bearing or other rod bearing type problem seems more likely.
 

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I really didn't have any indication that anything was about to happen. I had loaded my car onto my trailer and was heading out of town for a car show, so I was towing about 5700-5800#. I just got on the highway, when carnage happened.

Here's a pic of my piston...

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system


I think it was just a bad spray pattern, probably a stream rather than a mist. I had all the injectors replaced when the new motor went in.
 

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I really didn't have any indication that anything was about to happen. I had loaded my car onto my trailer and was heading out of town for a car show, so I was towing about 5700-5800#. I just got on the highway, when carnage happened.

Here's a pic of my piston...

View attachment 416821

I think it was just a bad spray pattern, probably a stream rather than a mist. I had all the injectors replaced when the new motor went in.
Thanks for sharing this information. When/what year did this occur to your engine? Do you have a part number for the injectors that the dealership replaced?
TIA
 

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About Aug 2019.

New inj part # 55594509

My engine failure had been reported on this forum in another thread when it happened. So this isn't a new occurrence. It's in here somewhere.

I was not running any fuel additive then. But I have been for about the last year. I even mentioned to the service manager when I started using the fuel additive what he thought, especially since before, in the owner's manual that it wasn't recommended, and he pretty much said to use a fuel additive.
 

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I do find it pretty suspicious that GM changed the whole fuel system for 2019+... Have any failures of 2019 and newer been reported? I really want to tune, but being that I tow at max gvwr and I am leary. Plus I have horrible luck. :ROFLMAO:
 

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16whitecolly aka, the original Texas Troll IGNORED! 21 CCSB Duramax AT4 Desert Sand Metalic
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I do find it pretty suspicious that GM changed the whole fuel system for 2019+... Have any failures of 2019 and newer been reported? I really want to tune, but being that I tow at max gvwr and I am leary. Plus I have horrible luck. :ROFLMAO:
What was changed for 2019?
 

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I do find it pretty suspicious that GM changed the whole fuel system for 2019+... Have any failures of 2019 and newer been reported? I really want to tune, but being that I tow at max gvwr and I am leary. Plus I have horrible luck.
What was changed for 2019?
The whole fuel system wasn't changed. Different Denso injectors and the cylinder head was updated to accept the new injectors. Apparently the new injectors are rated for higher pressure but GM is leaving the rail pressure the same.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
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I asked directly (twice) what had failed. The first time I got an "I don't know-there was an internal failure" and the 2nd time "GM did not have us open it up" obviously they did a little more troubleshooting than they have shared. However, having driven the vehicle, there was little question that the engine needed to be replaced.
I am very interested in knowing what failed. As an engineer, that is what I do-determine failure modes and work out a course of cation to correct and prevent future failures. I intend to keep this truck for many hundreds of thousands of miles. I am not interesting in seeing this new engine fail at anything thing less than 250K. With the first one having failed at 55K with no modifications and very good maintenance I am a little concerned. I really like this truck-I am hoping that I can count on it in the future.
When your injector went out, what kind of indications where associated with that? Any? Was the injector stuck open or just developed a bad pattern that created a hot spot?
My engine seemed to run very well. I did not lose much oil-less than a quart.
In your shoes, I would be concerned too except if it was either of the two reported issues, wrist pin failure or injector failure, I would be fairly confident that GM's supplier had addressed the cause.

At least that's what I'd tell myself...
 

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The whole fuel system wasn't changed. Different Denso injectors and the cylinder head was updated to accept the new injectors. Apparently the new injectors are rated for higher pressure but GM is leaving the rail pressure the same.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
I thought the fuel system was a bosch unit on these, am I wrong or was there a change at some point?
 

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I thought the fuel system was a bosch unit on these, am I wrong or was there a change at some point?
Nope, hasn't ever been Bosch.

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16whitecolly aka, the original Texas Troll IGNORED! 21 CCSB Duramax AT4 Desert Sand Metalic
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Nope, hasn't ever been Bosch.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
That's what I had thought too. My coworkers BMW suffered a Bosch injection pump failure that wiped out the entire fuel system. In our case , I thought that couldn't happen because a change was made to prevent an entire fuel system failure if the IP failed.

Is that correct? I know there are aftermarket kits for the big Duramax to address that possibility.
 

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That's what I had thought too. My coworkers BMW suffered a Bosch injection pump failure that wiped out the entire fuel system. In our case , I thought that couldn't happen because a change was made to prevent an entire fuel system failure if the IP failed.

Is that correct? I know there are aftermarket kits for the big Duramax to address that possibility.
The 6.6 Duramax used Bosch fuel systems until the L5P and then starting with the L5P they were Denso. The 2.8 LWN has always had a Denso fuel system.
 
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