I really appreciate the info. I am not sure what to do because I want to add a couple of inches but also don’t want to mess up anything or put unneeded stress on my truck. I may just do 1.25” block and the stage 1 eibach with shocks and the setting at .7
thanks for the compliment! You can try it at full 4 up front, bet you won't like the ride much as most of your suspension travel is gone but the new UCA's should help prevent premature failure at least. I'm 2wd, so I'm not as worried on the angles as i would be with 4x4 like you. You can always dissemble and go down a notch or 2. I did it 3 times already, can do both sides in just over an hour now and that's with the old style spring compressor tool of death! lol
UCA's have been on my list for a while, $750 plus $100 to ship to Hawaii sucks! Even the ICON Black Friday or the Dirt King group buy was still over $700. I'm waiting for a better price or a broken part to force me to change them. If go do 2" rear blocks, you'll need the rear shock extender even with the Eibach. I think only+1" works without it.
cant attach pics on this conversation thread, but if you can see my album in my profile, mos of the pics after the one with the Eibach strut / springs is the 2.7 front/ 1.25 back. There is one side view one on far left bottom corner where I had the RHA at top for full 2 plus the zone 1.25 on top, looked perfect for the stance but it rode very poorly and I took off after cple days. The Strut /spring combo is so much better!
Sorry so late with the reply, just saw it today.2" upfront is just about level. Earlier I had the zone 1.25 level kit but it was still slightly nose down. Now I have Eibachs set at the 2nd notch, so I get 2" from the spring and another 0.7" with the strut, that's about the safest you can do. I talked to a Eibach tech about the settings. The 3rd and top notch should only be used to offset additional weight / sag from a heavy aftermarket bumper, winch etc added on. If you run the full 2" +2', you going to risk stressing / failing the suspension components with the added angle, especially the upper ball joint and acv boots/ axels. You'd have a better chance if you also put new upper control arms with uniball joint to reduce some of the angles. DIff drop and sway relocation kit or new longer swaybar ends for sure.