HOW TO: Remove HVAC Fan Motor - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: Remove HVAC Fan Motor

Disclaimer: "Please use caution and seek professional assistance when necessary. ColoradoFans.com, myself and all associated members are not responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm which may occur with this modification. This post does not reflect the views of ColoradoFans.com and it's ownership." Before attempting this modification, it is advised to verify your Colorado or Canyon service manual or a certified mechanic, as not all GMT 355's are the same!

A cFans Members Mod Projects/How-To by Canyon04Z71



How to remove HVAC Fan Motor for replacement or troubleshooting.


Skill Level: Easy

Modified GMT355:
Make: GMC
Model: Canyon SLE 4WD
Year: 2004
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No


Tools Needed:

1/4" 4" Extension
1/4" Univeral Joint
1/4" Spinner Handle
1/4" 6mm socket


1. Remove the right hinge pillar trim panel.


2. Remove the blower motor mounting screws.
3. Remove the blower motor cooling tube (2).
4. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector (4).
5. Remove the blower motor (3).



Be sure to have a 1/4" univeral joint to flex into a tight location near the firewall for the third screw on the fan motor. To get that screw back in and started, I used this setup:

I electrical taped the screw in place for reinstallation.. Worked like a charm.

Inside the HVAC system:



The Fan motor:
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Insulation Kit from GM for HVAC Fan Motor

Bulletin No.: 06-01-38-001

Date: February 28, 2006

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Excessive Blower Motor Clicking/chirping/whirring or Ticking Noises on Low Speed (Install Blower Motor Sound Insulator Cover)

Models:
2005-2006 Chevrolet Colorado
2005-2006 GMC Canyon

Condition

Some customers may comment on excessive or annoying blower motor noise on low fan speed. Sounds may include ticking, chirping, clicking or whirring noises.

Cause

The blower motor is located within the vehicle under the passenger side lower I/P. This location, while allowing for increased serviceability, does not offer much isolation from blower motor noise.

Correction

To reduce the noise level from the blower motor, install a blower motor sound insulator cover using the procedure below.

1. Remove the front passenger door sill molding.

2. Remove the front passenger side interior kick panel molding.

3. Remove the front passenger interior floor courtesy light.

4. Remove the BCM connector facing the blower motor.

5. Remove the wire retaining metal clip from the BCM harness.

6. Install the molded insulator to the blower motor. Refer to the above illustration. The insulator may need to be flexed in order to be properly situated on the motor. When the insulator is properly installed, it will be form fitted to the motor and the retainer hole in the cover (1) will align with a hole in the back side of the motor body.

7. A stud will align with the second hole in the insulating cover. Refer to location (2) in the above illustration, which shows the location of the stud (not visible in photo). Please note the location of the BCM in the photo. This should aid in properly locating the cover.

8. Use the push-pin to secure the cover in place.

9. Re-route the BCM harness over the newly installed cover and retain using the metal clip. This should give additional support to the flexible blower motor cover.

10. Install the front passenger interior floor courtesy light.

11. Install the front passenger side interior kick panel molding.

12. Install the front passenger door sill molding.


PART #'s:

15836647 cover
10098645 pushpin
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 10:10 PM
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I see you have the carpet and the rubber pad underneath pulled back. I've tried it without with no luck. Does the carpet+pad go back into place easily?

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy28
I see you have the carpet and the rubber pad underneath pulled back. I've tried it without with no luck. Does the carpet+pad go back into place easily?
Yes, there was no adhesive or fastening to deal with. I just peeled it back and then put it back in place. It just kinda sits there, with the passenger side kick panel holding it.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 03:50 PM
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Kewl. I'll give it another go. :)

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:11 PM
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I just pulled mine apart tonight. It wasn't difficult as long as you were paying attention to what you were doing.

I did notice that my motor was secured into place w/ 7/32 screws, not 6mm. I don't know if they changed things after the '04 model year. And the rubber mat was secured in place on my truck. I tried following it up and it went higher than I could reach.

And here is a little tip for getting that final screw back in. Its going to sound so simple you are going to wonder why you didn't think to do this sooner. Before you start trying to feel around for that final hidden screw hole, grab a small mirror and lay it underneath where you are working. That way you don't have to fumble around looking for the hole while trying to guide the screw at the same time. It makes it a lot easier to line everything up.

And just like Canyon08Z71 mentioned, a little electrical tape around the screw will help hold the screw into place until you can get it lined up and started.

I tried to get that last screw in place a couple times before trying to use the mirror. It made it so much easier to line up.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 11:16 AM
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I have an '04 and I can't get the rubber pad up either. It goes up behind the dash aways I guess. And my screws were 5.5mm, not 6mm.

But I got it out. :)

TY Canyon08Z71!!!

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 12:32 PM
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If its a 5.5 . . . Its probably 7/32"

Getting it back in is a trick with that rubber mat in place.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 01:38 PM
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Yep, my 2004 is 7/32.

2004 Chevy Colorado LS z71 4x4 Crew Cab 3.5L
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 10:11 PM
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Where is the right hinge pillar panel?

Go Packers!!
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassboarder85
Where is the right hinge pillar panel?
I updated the first post with a picture of it.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 06:24 PM
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Re: HOW TO: Remove HVAC Fan Motor

I have an "04 Canyon and I was wondering if the cover mentionned at the start of this thread for the blower motor would fit my truck? As well the part numbers supplied, are those GM part numbers ? ( cover 15836647) When I phoned the dealer here in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada they had no clue fo what I was talking about.
Thanks: Martial
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 11:35 PM
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Re: HOW TO: Remove HVAC Fan Motor

canyon08z71, can you please repost the pictures detailing the removal of the blower motor?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 05:05 PM
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Re: HOW TO: Remove HVAC Fan Motor

Hi there. Any chance you could re-post the pictures from the instructions above? They are not loading.

THanks so much!
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-03-2011, 03:44 PM
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Re: HOW TO: Remove HVAC Fan Motor

I would like to see the pictures restored as well. Please?

2005 Colorado LS Z71 2WD Crew Cab
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canyon08Z71 View Post
Disclaimer: "Please use caution and seek professional assistance when necessary. ColoradoFans.com, myself and all associated members are not responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm which may occur with this modification. This post does not reflect the views of ColoradoFans.com and it's ownership." Before attempting this modification, it is advised to verify your Colorado or Canyon service manual or a certified mechanic, as not all GMT 355's are the same!

A cFans Members Mod Projects/How-To by Canyon04Z71



How to remove HVAC Fan Motor for replacement or troubleshooting.


Skill Level: Easy

Modified GMT355:
Make: GMC
Model: Canyon SLE 4WD
Year: 2004
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No


Tools Needed:

1/4" 4" Extension
1/4" Univeral Joint
1/4" Spinner Handle
1/4" 6mm socket


1. Remove the right hinge pillar trim panel.


2. Remove the blower motor mounting screws.
3. Remove the blower motor cooling tube (2).
4. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector (4).
5. Remove the blower motor (3).



Be sure to have a 1/4" univeral joint to flex into a tight location near the firewall for the third screw on the fan motor. To get that screw back in and started, I used this setup:

I electrical taped the screw in place for reinstallation.. Worked like a charm.

Inside the HVAC system:



The Fan motor:

How come you have to remove the right hinge pillar trim? My fan motor is making funny noises ( sound like a bad bearing) so I'll have to replace it when I get some time. I looked under the dash and it looks like I can get the motor out with a long socket extension and it did not look like you had to remove the trim. I hate removing these plastic trim pieces since they are likely to break on a 7 year old vehicle.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 01:29 PM
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For those who are looking for the pictures, I am going to be removing my HVAC blower today due to what sounds like a bearing/lubrication issue. It is my intent to take pictures along the way, but things don't always go as planned.

Additionally, I plan to disassemble the fan in order to (hopefully) repack the bearings and silence the squealing.

In the event that I do not forget to take pictures, I will post them here after I have finished.

"The ignorance of Mankind is no excuse for that of the Individual." ~Sean Reeves
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 05:48 PM
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HVAC Fan Removal

The fan removal and subsequent installation took me about 30 minutes. The total time was about 2 hours because I took the blower apart to clean it and put grease on the bearings. However, I will not be posting instructions for the blower repair itself because it was quite tedious and I wouldn't recommend it considering a new blower is pretty cheap.



STEP 1: Gather the required tools.


A: 10 in. flat-tip screwdriver (used as a pry bar)
B: 8 in. flat-tip screwdriver (used to remove electrical connector)
C: 1/4 in. drive socket wrench
D: 6 in. extension (1/4 in. drive)
E: 7/32 in. socket (1/4 in. drive)
F: Universal joint (1/4 in. drive)
G: Electrical tape

---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 2: Remove the passenger side trim panel.

Simply pull upward on the edges. The second image shows where the attachment snaps are positioned.





---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 3: Remove the kick panel.

The second image shows where the 10 in. screwdriver (A) was used. I simply pulled the kick panel back far enough to get the screwdriver in between the circled clip and the body and pried it off. I tried simply pulling on it first, but it wouldn't budge.





---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 4: Pull back the carpet.

My carpet had Velcro holding it in place, which seems like a repair made by a previous owner considering the Velcro was merely stapled to the carpet.


---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 5: Locate the rubber tube and electrical connector.

In the image below, the tube is highlighted blue and the electrical connector is depicted by the larger circle. The smaller circle is one of the 3 screws that hold the blower in place, another is hidden by the (highlighted) tube. The third screw is hidden by the blower itself in this photo.


---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 6: Remove the rubber tube.

This photo shows where the tube was and circles the screw that was hidden by the tube in Step 5.


---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 7: Disconnect the electrical connector.

The slot circled in the image below must be depressed in order to disconnect the electrical connector. I used the 8 in. screwdriver (B) for this step. The circled screw is the same one from Step 6.


---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 8: Remove the 3 blower-mounting screws.

The image below shows the last (and hardest to reach) screw. This step uses the socket wrench (C), extension (D), socket (E), and universal joint (F). Note that only the screw shown below will require use of the universal joint (F).


---------------------------------------------------------



STEP 9: Finished! Reverse the steps to re-install.

The electrical tape (G) is used to re-install the screw circled in Step 8. Place the screw in the socket and tape it in place. Just remember to remove the tape before tightening the screw; otherwise the tape and socket will be much harder to retrieve.


---------------------------------------------------------


Note that it isn't 100% necessary to perform Steps 2-4, but failing to perform these steps will make the screw shown in Step 8 much, much harder to remove and re-install.

Hope this helps!
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 11:15 AM
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would like to see the pics. only have a small box with an x in to. can anyone help me? tks
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 06:14 PM
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Thanks for the pictures. Got my Blower motor out but didn't new a new one. The fan had dead bugs and leaves in it. Cleaned it out, now no more clicking noise plus saved $150 for new GM one.
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