Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner

Weight Distribution Hitch with a Travel Trailer

20K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  16WhiteColly 
#1 ·
I'm sure this has been asked before but I'm having trouble finding the answer even after searching. I have a 2017 Colorado z71 short box with the factory towing package. I've always towed small boats in the past but we are buying a travel trailer and I want to make sure I have the right gear. I'm in the process of buying a brake controller but I'm wondering if I need a weight distribution hitch because I've never used one before. The trailer is 21'5" and has a dry weight of 3285, fully loaded of 4400with tongue weight being 485.

If anyone could give me some insight, I'd really appreciate it.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I tow a ~5,500 lb travel trailer with this truck (and I wouldn't want to tow much more than that). I definitely recommend a weight distribution hitch. Specifically, I use the ProPride as it does a fantastic job of preventing trailer sway. That thing tracks right behind me; never had a hint of sway. It's pricey, but you are talking about your family's safety.
 
#4 ·
General rule of thumb, trailer over 2000 GVW pounds you want a brake controller and a weight distributing hitch. Get the right tools for the job!
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeConcierge
#10 ·
2,000lbs?

I have a 3,000lb Boat & trailer and it doesn’t even have trailer brakes. Single axles are normally 3,500lbs each axles (what I have). When you have dual axle - you’re talking 7,000lbs and need trailer brakes.

I’m not sure if this varies by state on when/if you need trailer brakes.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Get a WDH that also has sway control built in. There are a few manufactures that have it. The Equalizer 4-way, The reese has a cam locking system and there a few others. Travel trailers are big sail's and catch the wind. Don't cheap out on a WDH get a quality one. Watch this video for some insight and etrailer customer support is very helpful. A good place to buy from with good prices.
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Weight_Distribution.aspx
 
#7 ·
I tried towing with a Blue Ox (I think that was the name) and the friction-based system for controlling sway wasn't fail-proof. That's when I got the ProPride. There's a similar system/technology called Hensley Arrow. Both of those use physics to prevent sway. It basically locks out the ball and projects the trailer's pivot point to beneath the rear axle. The only way the hitch will allow a pivot is if the turning force is applied by the truck - the trailer cannot impart a turning/swaying force. It's a lot more money, but really is a fabulous hitch.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I've found that with shorter trailers (under24-26'including hitch) they really like a lot of tongue weight. Mine is 26' total length and weights 5400 loaded, it tows perfectly with 700-750lbs of tongue weight, any less and it will wiggle a little even with sway control. As mentioned, you will need a WDH. There's a million on the market and all will work if properly setup. My dealer installed this one and it has worked fine for me.
 
#15 ·
We just put a deposit down on a new Geo Pro 19QB. The dealer is telling me I don't need a weight distribution hitch because the trailer is single axle. They throw in the WDH for free "if you need it". I'm guessing that is tied in more to the dollar amount. Any thoughts?
 
#17 ·
I don't see the number of axles would be a factor at all, and if anything for the same trailer weight having a single axle would probably make it more likely to need a WD hitch. Unless I'm missing something, needing a WD hitch is a function of tongue weight, and that's a function of trailer weight.
 
#21 ·
Based on your testimony and some internet research, the Andersen seems like the way to go. I'll pick one up this week when I get the trailer. Thanks for your feedback.
I hope you like it as much as I do! While the lighter weight was what drew me to the Andersen, the ease of getting the WDH dialed in is a great bonus. The biggest learning curve is getting it lined up so the chains mount to the triangle plate without having to re-adjust where you're parked. The videos and manual tell you to hitch up at the same angle as you unhitched and if the angle is off to connect one chain and then pull straight forward to even them out to attach the other chain. That's a bit much. Two alternatives that have worked well for me...

- Back up to the trailer and use a rubber mallet to tap the triangle plate so that it is perpendicular to trailer for equal chain length, then hitch up.
or
- Back up, get the angle as close as possible, hitch up, and then loosen/tighten the chains as needed to attach them to the plate, then tighten the chains to the correct tension based on front fender height. Don't want the triangle plate angle to be way off but it doesn't need to be 100% exact either.

After some practice you'll find what works best for you.

One thing I will highly suggest is an electric tongue jack if you don't have one already. I have a Husky Brute that works great and makes raising and lowering the trailer/truck to get the WDH chains in place a breeze. Manually cranking the trailer/truck up and down for the WDH gets real old real fast, especially if it's super hot or raining.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WHEELBURNS
#22 ·
I hope you like it as much as I do! While the lighter weight was what drew me to the Andersen, the ease of getting the WDH dialed in is a great bonus. The biggest learning curve is getting it lined up so the chains mount to the triangle plate without having to re-adjust where you're parked.
Well I lied. I ended up going with the E2, since I could find it locally and in a hurry. Below is a photo of what the idiot RV dealer sent me home with (luckily very close by) and then again with the WDH (that I bought somewhere else).
 

Attachments

#25 ·
The Hensley WD Hitch is the best you can buy, if money is no problem, because they are very expensive, but the design is awesome.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top